Dress Project: Elena Skirt

4 hrs 45 mins

Difficulty:

Welcome to the Elena Skirt Project!

In this course, I’ll walk you step-by-step through the process of fitting a skirt block, developing and finishing all the patterns, how to use a high-end fabric, cutting, sewing and finishing the skirt.

By the end of this course, you’ll learn / have:

👉 Have your own customized Skirt Block
👉 Fix your skirt block fit problems
👉 Correct your patterns and truing them
👉 The steps involved in creating a garment from a design idea to finished product
👉 How to develop the lining pattern for your skirt
👉 How to make pattern of your own waistband, straight or curved
👉 Sewing your skirt with high-end finishings
👉 High-end style silk bias binding of your tailored skirt

LESSONS

Introduction

Project Design Overview
Lesson 1
Project Design Overview
I introduce the design for this asymmetric pencil skirt with a flared side, inspired by an Alexander McQueen dress. The skirt will have a fitted pencil silhouette on one side and a longer, flared panel on the other side, with a fully lined interior.
3 mins
Required Tools for Drafting & Patternmaking
Lesson 2
Required Tools for Drafting & Patternmaking
Essential tools needed for draping and patternmaking. I discuss the importance of having the right equipment, such as a sewing machine, dress form, muslin fabric, pattern paper, pins, measuring tools, and other accessories.
4 mins

Printable PDFs

PDF: Drafting & Patternmaking Tools List
Lesson 3
PDF: Drafting & Patternmaking Tools List
Print this PDF for future reference!
PDF: Pattern Size Chart (cm)
Lesson 4
PDF: Pattern Size Chart (cm)
PDF: Pattern Size Chart (inches)
Lesson 5
PDF: Pattern Size Chart (inches)
PDF: Skirt Block Pattern UK4-24 (US Letter)
Lesson 6
PDF: Skirt Block Pattern UK4-24 (US Letter)
PDF: Skirt Block Pattern UK4-24 (A4)
Lesson 7
PDF: Skirt Block Pattern UK4-24 (A4)
PDF: Radius Chart for Circle Skirts​
Lesson 8
PDF: Radius Chart for Circle Skirts​
Print this PDF for future reference!

Skirt Block

Printing and Assembling Skirt Block PDF
Lesson 9
Printing and Assembling Skirt Block PDF
How to print and assemble a skirt pattern from the PDF files. The key steps are determining your size from the measurement chart, printing the pattern pieces accurately, and then assembling the printed pages together.
14 mins
Transferring Printed Skirt Block to Patternmaking Paper
Lesson 10
Transferring Printed Skirt Block to Patternmaking Paper
How to transfer a skirt pattern onto dot paper for pattern making. I demonstrate aligning the pattern pieces, tracing the outlines using a needle point tracer, and then drawing the lines neatly with a marker.
14 mins
Fitting the Sample Skirt Block
Lesson 11
Fitting the Sample Skirt Block
How to properly fit a skirt pattern to achieve the desired fit. I demonstrate the process using a muslin sample and a dress form.
13 mins
Transferring Fitting Corrections to Skirt Block
Lesson 12
Transferring Fitting Corrections to Skirt Block
How to adjust a basic skirt pattern to achieve the perfect fit around the hips and waist. I demonstrate techniques for taking in or letting out the pattern at specific areas for a customized fit. I show how to mark the necessary adjustments directly on a muslin or existing skirt, then transfer those changes to create an updated pattern piece.
31 mins

Drafting

Developing Elena Skirt Design Pattern - Part 1
Lesson 13
Developing Elena Skirt Design Pattern - Part 1
How to draft an asymmetric skirt pattern by modifying an existing skirt block. I demonstrate shortening the skirt length, dropping the waistline, and creating an asymmetric flare on one side of the skirt.
18 mins
Developing Elena Skirt Design Pattern - Part 2
Lesson 14
Developing Elena Skirt Design Pattern - Part 2
In this lesson, I teach how to draft a pattern for a flared skirt with an extended side panel. I go through the steps of separating the front and back skirt pieces, measuring for the flared side panel, and creating that half-circle panel to be attached.
39 mins
Drafting Waistband Patterns - Overview
Lesson 15
Drafting Waistband Patterns - Overview
How to draft both straight and curved waistbands for skirts. Straight waistbands are suitable when the skirt sits at the natural waistline, while curved waistbands are used for dropped waist designs. I demonstrate drafting both types of waistbands on two different skirt patterns.
2 mins
Drafting Waistband Patterns - Straight Waistband (No Underwrap)
Lesson 16
Drafting Waistband Patterns - Straight Waistband (No Underwrap)
In this lesson, I teach how to draft a basic waistband for a skirt without any overlap or underlap.
9 mins
Drafting Waistband Patterns - Straight Waistband (With Underwrap)
Lesson 17
Drafting Waistband Patterns - Straight Waistband (With Underwrap)
How to draft a waistband pattern with an overlap closure at the back. I demonstrate the steps using paper, marking the necessary measurements and seam allowances.
13 mins
Drafting Waistband Patterns - Curved Waistband (With Underwrap)
Lesson 18
Drafting Waistband Patterns - Curved Waistband (With Underwrap)
How to draft a curved waistband for a lowered waist skirt. I demonstrate the steps to create a curved waistband pattern that accommodates the larger lower waist measurement while maintaining a smooth fit around the waistline. I also show how to add an overlap or underlap for closures like hooks and eyes.
17 mins

Cutting

Cutting Elena Skirt Pattern with Final Designer Fabric
Lesson 19
Cutting Elena Skirt Pattern with Final Designer Fabric
How to properly cut the fabric pieces for a skirt and its lining, considering the pattern placement and fabric design. I highlight the importance of aligning the hemlines and seams for a polished look.
10 mins

Sewing & Finishing

Sewing Review of Elena Skirt
Lesson 20
Sewing Review of Elena Skirt
How to finish the seams of the Elena skirt using bias binding for a high-end look. I use silk habotai bias strips to cover and enclose the raw edges, creating a Hong Kong seam finish.
4 mins
Sewing of Elena Skirt - Part 1
Lesson 21
Sewing of Elena Skirt - Part 1
How to attach bias binding neatly to the seams, close darts precisely, join the skirt panels, and finish the flared hem edges for a clean, structured silhouette. I emphasize making decisions during construction based on the fabric's behavior.
57 mins
Sewing of Elena Skirt - Part 2
Lesson 22
Sewing of Elena Skirt - Part 2
How to finish constructing our lined plaid skirt, including inserting the zipper, attaching the lining, and creating a waistband from grosgrain ribbon.
43 mins

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