LEVEL 4

Welcome to Level 4 of Draping Path! One of the most important step in your dressmaking journey is to build your base patterns, that fit you well and can be used in many projects over and over again. When you have a well-fitted bodice, torso, skirt, sleeve and a dress pattern, you can build your entire wardrobe. In this level, we’ll start by draping a 2-darts bodice on your body double dress form. Preferably Bust and waist darts. If your breast size is bigger than C cup, you might like to Drape a ‘2 Darts bodice’ of Waist and Armhole darts. We’ll transfer the bodice to pattern paper & true the pattern. We’ll cut our pattern on muslin & try it on to see any issues that we might have, and address them. We’ll then drape a 2-dart fitted torso bodice, and turn it into a pattern with sleeve. Next we’ll do a Relaxed Custom Size top pattern with sleeve, and finally drape a Basic Skirt on your custom fitted form. As you progress through the level, make sure you share your progress with us in our Community group, so you can get support & feedback from our members & also from me during our Weekly Live Q&A Sessions! Let’s dive right in.

BACK TO ALL LEVELS

LEVEL 4 ACTION ITEMS

Drape a ‘2-Darts Bodice’ on your padded dress form -- preferrably Bust & Waist darts (If your breast size is bigger than C cup, you might want to drape your bodice with Waist & Armhole darts).
Transfer your Bodice to pattern paper, tru and cut on muslin. Try it on. Address your issues if you have any (for example: do your shoulder, armhole, bust area on your sample bodice fit well?)
Drape a 2-Dart fitted torso bodice on your padded dress form & turn it into a pattern with sleeve.
Drape a relaxed custom-size top, and turn into a pattern with sleeve.
Drape a Basic Skirt on your padded form. Try, fit and address any issues, and turn it into a pattern if it fits well.
Share your progress in the Community & get feedback from Neda and other members!

LEVEL 4 STUDY MATERIALS

Creating the Bodices

Draping Basic Bodice Foundation with 2 Darts (Waist and Bust)

How to drape a basic bodice with two darts - one at the waistline and another at the bust line. This method is especially helpful for those with a fuller bust and smaller waist, as it distributes the excess fabric into two separate darts for a better fit.

Patternmaking Basic Bodice Foundation with 2 Darts (Waist and Bust)

How to transfer a draped basic bodice pattern with two darts - one at the waistline and one at the bust line. I demonstrate transferring the draped muslin pieces onto paper to make the pattern.

Draping 2-Dart (Armhole and Waist) Bodice Front on Larger Chest

How to drape a fitted bodice with armhole and waist darts, suitable for larger bust sizes. I provide step-by-step instructions on positioning the fabric, marking the darts, and shaping the bodice on a dress form. The process involves pinning, folding, and adjusting the fabric to achieve a clean, fitted look around the bust, armhole, and waist areas.

Bodices Tips & Tricks

How to Create a Dropped Shoulder Without Sleeve on Your Pattern

I demonstrate how to modify a pattern block to create a dropped shoulder design without sleeves. I extend the shoulder line by an inch or two, then drop the underarm area by the same amount to provide extra room. Additionally, I curve the shoulder area slightly to prevent it from sticking out.

How to Make Your Pattern Neck Circle Smaller but not the Shoulder

This guide teaches how to alter a pattern to better fit around the neck and shoulder area. The guide also demonstrates a specific technique for tightening the neck curve on a pattern by taking in the shoulder area without altering the center front, center back, or overall neck curve shape.

How to Correct Your Pattern for a Sway Back

I demonstrate how to correct a sway back issue on a pattern when the pattern is designed for a straighter back. I explain the process of pinning and marking the excess fabric on a test garment, transferring those adjustments to the pattern by creating a center back seam or adding a dart, and ensuring the pattern pieces align properly for a better fit.

Making a Basic Skirt

Draping a Basic Skirt

In this guide, I teach how to drape a basic straight skirt on a dress form, incorporating darts to achieve the desired fit.

Basic Skirt – Transferring to Pattern

How to transfer the draped basic skirt to pattern, with different skirt styles like straight, tapered, and A-line from muslin. I demonstrate transferring the draped skirts onto paper, truing the darts, and adjusting for the desired lengths and silhouettes.

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