Classic Shirt

4 hrs 31 mins

Welcome to Classic Shirt Project!

In this project, we will cover steps of making a classic shirt with a yoke.

Classic Shirt Project Description:

Semi-fitted classic button-up shirt
Back yoke that extends to front shoulder
Box Pleat or gathering options in the back and front
Classic shirt collar with stand
Sleeve, cuff and button placket
More fitted option with darts

Project Steps:

Taping and measuring the dress form
Draping with muslin over dress form,
Classic Shirt sleeve drafting
Drafting Collar with a stand
Drafting Cuff and button placket
Drafting shirt + Blouse foundation from personal Bodice block
Cutting, Sewing instructions from YouTube are included

LESSONS

Introduction

Lesson 1

PDF: Classic Shirt with Yoke

Print this PDF for future reference!

Lesson 2

Classic Shirt Overview, Taping, Muslin Preparation

In this session, I demonstrate draping a classic shirt with all the essential elements like a yoke, classic sleeve, cuff, and stand collar. I explain the purpose and variations of the yoke design and the necessary preparation for draping.

9 mins

Draping

Lesson 3

Draping Yoke

How to drape the yoke for the classic shirt. I start with the back yoke, pinning and smoothing the muslin around the neckline and shoulders.

8 mins

Lesson 4

Draping Shirt Front with Gathering at Front Yoke

How to drape the front of a classic shirt with gathering at the front yoke. I demonstrate the steps on a muslin fabric pinned to a dress form.

8 mins

Lesson 5

Draping Shirt Back with Fitted and Box Pleat - Gathering Options

In this lesson, I teach how to drape the back piece of a shirt, including options for a fitted back or adding a box pleat for more room. I demonstrate pinning the muslin fabric and marking key lines.

8 mins

Lesson 6

Draping Classic Shirt Front More Fitted With a Dart

How to create a more fitted shirt front by adding a bust dart. I reattach the front piece, smooth out the excess fabric around the bust area, and fold it into a dart at the bust line.

7 mins

Patternmaking

Lesson 7

Sleeve, Cuff, Button Placket PDF

Print this PDF for future reference!

Lesson 8

Classic Shirt with Gathers & Box Pleat - Correcting & Truing

In this session, I go through correcting and truing the draped pieces for the classic shirt. I lay the front, back and yoke pieces flat to make adjustments before transferring to the paper pattern.

30 mins

Lesson 9

Classic Shirt Fitted with No Gathers - Correcting & Truing

I demonstrate how to create a more fitted classic shirt silhouette without gathers at the back. I show the steps to adjust the draped pattern pieces to achieve a closer fit around the body while maintaining the classic shirt style.

21 mins

Lesson 10

Measuring the Armhole and the Neckline

How to measure the armhole and neckline accurately for drafting the sleeves and collar of the classic shirt. We trued the lines, connected the yoke to the shoulders, and took key measurements from the shoulder line reference points.

14 mins

Lesson 11

Transferring Shirt to Pattern Paper

In this lesson, I teach how to transfer the muslin shirt pieces onto pattern paper and make necessary adjustments before drafting the sleeves. I demonstrate truing the side seams, adjusting armhole curves, and lengthening the shirt hem.

22 mins

Shirt Sleeve

Lesson 12

Drafting the Shirt Sleeve

How to draft the sleeve for a classic shirt using a sleeve block that matches the dress form. I demonstrate the process of relaxing the fitted sleeve to create a more relaxed sleeve suitable for a shirt.

18 mins

Lesson 13

Drafting Sleeve Cuff and Shirt Button Band, and Preparing for Collar

In this lesson, I teach how to draft the sleeve cuff, button band, and prepare for drafting the collar for a classic shirt. I demonstrate the steps involved in creating these pattern pieces.

29 mins

Shirt Collar

Lesson 14

Classic Shirt Collar with Stand PDF

Print this PDF for future reference!

Lesson 15

Classic Shirt Collar with Stand - Drafting and Truing

In this session, I teach the technical steps to draft and true a classic shirt collar with stand. I follow a metric pattern cutting system to create the pattern pieces.

46 mins

Bonus

Lesson 16

Drafting Shirt/Blouse Foundation - Using Your Personal Bodice and Sleeve Block

I demonstrate how to use fitted bodice blocks to create a blouse or shirt foundation pattern. I relax the fit by lowering the armholes, adding ease to the side seams, and incorporating darts for a better bust fit.

50 mins