Oversized Shirt

2 hrs 10 mins

Welcome to the Oversized Shirt Project!

We will cover steps for making an oversized shirt/blouse with puff sleeves or large sleeves in this project.

Project includes:

  • Preparing muslin, and dress form
  • Draping the oversize shirt and marking
  • Using draped muslin and transferring to sewing pattern, truing
  • Fitting the sample on dress form
  • Drafting the oversize shirt using personal blocks
  • Relaxing armhole, dropped shoulder
  • Drafting larger sleeve, puff sleeve
  • Drafting convertible collar and mandarin collar PDF included

LESSONS

Introduction

Oversizing Shirt Pattern PDF
Lesson 1
Oversizing Shirt Pattern PDF
Print this PDF for future reference!
Overview of the Oversized Shirt
Lesson 2
Overview of the Oversized Shirt
On overview of the oversized shirt blouse. The oversized shirt fits loosely with dropped shoulders, wider neck and armholes compared to a relaxed fit shirt. I explain that it can be developed from a relaxed full torso shirt foundation.
7 mins
Muslin Preparation
Lesson 3
Muslin Preparation
How to prepare the muslin fabric for draping an oversized shirt. I use a soft, drapey fabric instead of the typical crisp muslin to better show how the garment will drape on the body.
8 mins

Draping

Draping the Oversized Shirt - Part 1
Lesson 4
Draping the Oversized Shirt - Part 1
How to drape an oversized shirt using a bust band and releasing folds to create the desired oversized silhouette. I demonstrate the steps on a dress form, marking key points and adjusting the fabric as needed.
17 mins
Draping the Oversized Shirt - Part 2
Lesson 5
Draping the Oversized Shirt - Part 2
How to drape an oversized shirt and make design decisions like adding sleeves, pockets, and adjusting the neckline. We also explore options for shaping the waist area with darts or pleats.
12 mins

Patternmaking

Truing the Oversized Shirt
Lesson 6
Truing the Oversized Shirt
How to true the oversized shirt drape by marking the shoulders, adjusting the armholes and neckline, and creating a slight curve at the waistline. I also show how to determine the hemline shape and measured the key areas like armholes, neckline, and shoulders.
14 mins
Checking the Fit on the Dress Form
Lesson 7
Checking the Fit on the Dress Form
I demonstrate how the oversized shirt drapes on the dress form, showcasing the relaxed and voluminous silhouette achieved with the chosen fabric. I highlight the potential for customization, such as adding pleats or adjusting the fit around the shoulders.
3 mins
Oversizing Shirt by Drafting
Lesson 8
Oversizing Shirt by Drafting
In this session, I show how to oversize a shirt pattern through drafting instead of draping. We use the relaxed shirt foundation and add extra ease to create an oversized silhouette.
31 mins
Puff Sleeve and Gathered Head PDF
Lesson 9
Puff Sleeve and Gathered Head PDF
Print this PDF for future reference!
Oversized Top Blouse Foundation Sleeve
Lesson 10
Oversized Top Blouse Foundation Sleeve
In this lesson, I teach how to draft the sleeve pattern for the oversized top blouse, including adjustments for a dropped shoulder and adding gathering or pleats to the sleeve.
26 mins
Convertible and Mandarin Collar PDF
Lesson 11
Convertible and Mandarin Collar PDF
Print this PDF for future reference!
Drafting a Convertible Collar
Lesson 12
Drafting a Convertible Collar
How to draft a convertible collar for the oversized shirt. A convertible collar is a simpler style of collar that doesn't have a stand and falls naturally, commonly used for casual shirts, especially in womenswear.
13 mins

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