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Dress Project: Debbie

7 hrs 49 mins

Welcome to the Debbie Dress Project!


In this Project, you will be able to develop:

  1. Kimono Sleeve Bodice foundation
  2. Dolman Sleeve Torso foundation
  3. Batwing Sleeve Torso Foundation for Jersey
  4. Half Circle or Full Circle Skirt Pattern


Debbie Dress Description

  • Sleeve V neck bodice attached to Half or Full Circle Skirt with side pockets, 
  • It has an Invisible zipper attached to the center back of the dress. Dress has a drawstring waist casing with a self fabric belt. You can also add elastic instead if you desire.  
  • The bodice neckline is faced with self fabric, spaghetti strings attached to the neckline for the look and to close the front neck when needed, visible seams all french seamed.  
  • Sleeves have lining with self fabric.
  • The finishing of the skirt includes,  french seam, pockets are bias binded, the skirt finished with baby hem.  


Debbie Dolman Sleeve Blouse

  • Round neck
  • Semi Relaxed fit 
  • Three Quarter Sleeve length
  • Length: 1” above Hip
  • Fabric Used: Mid-weight 100% silk, Crepe back Satin
  • Details: Semi Relaxed fit with dolman sleeves starting from above the waist point. Bias binded neckline with slit and button. Used French Seam on all visible seams, bias binds around the neckline, sleeve and hem. 


Debbie Batwing Jersey Top

  • Boat Neck
  • Relaxed Fit
  • Long Sleeve 
  • Length: Hipline
  • Fabric: Lightweight 4 way stretch Rayon Jersey (2 way stretch works too)
  • Details: Neckline, sleeves are self fabric binded, bottom of the top is coverstitched 


Technique of Construction

  • Drafting first on pattern paper
  • Sample cutting and fitting on dress form
  • Correcting patterns and turning into Debbie Dress Pattern.



FABRICS & Materials

For Construction

Muslin:

  • For kimono Bodice Foundation Sample fit, 1 yard 
  • For Dolman Sleeve Foundation Sample Fit 1 ¼ yard 
  • For Batwing Foundation Sample Fit 1 ½ Yard (Jersey) 
  • For Half Circle Skirt sample fit. 2 yards 
  • For Full Circle Skirt Sample fit 4 yards


Final Fabrics & Materials

Debbie Dress:

  • Skirt: I used lightweight 100% silk Charmeuse with Ombre print 
  • Bodice: I used 100% Silk matte Satin, with original Etro design print (Etro is a Luxe Italian Brand) 
  • Fabrics all purchased from Mood Fabrics Los Angeles. It is also available online.
  • 8” invisible zipper, small size hook and eyes, 7 yards of Silk Habotai Bias Strips
  • PRO-SHEER (Lightweight)  Elegance COUTURE Fusible Interfacing
  • Gütermann 100% Polyester all purpose thread in colors of the fabric used
  • Mid size beads attached to the strings of the bodice

Fabrics that  Can be Used for all Debbie Project Pieces 

For more draped look : Any content Polyester or Silk, Satin, Charmeuse, Crepe, Georgette, Chiffon, Crépe de Chine, Polyester or Silk Gauze, Crepe Back Satin

Fore more Bodied look: Lightweight Linen, Silk Twill, Silk Organza, Cotton Seersucker, Cotton Batiste, Eyelet Cotton, Poplin, Lightweight Denim, Lightweight Brocade,

Jersey:

For a more draped look:  Lightweight, mid-weight Interlock, 2 way stretch, silk, rayon, viscose lightweight Jersey, single jerseys, or lightweight double jersey, Micro Modal, Bamboo

For a more bodied look: Lightweight Jacquard jersey, double jersey. Punto Roma.

(P.S. These project videos have been applied to Woven fabric. If you decide to apply to Jersey and have questions, please ask during Live Q&A Sessions)  

LESSONS

Introduction

Fabrics & Materials Information PDF
Lesson 1
Fabrics & Materials Information PDF
Print this PDF for future reference!
Debbie Design Overview
Lesson 2
Debbie Design Overview
An overview of the Debbie dress design, which is inspired by the kimono sleeve look and features a relaxed, airy silhouette with a westernized, modernized kimono-style top and a full or half-circle skirt.
10 mins

Drafting

Drafting Basic Kimono Bodice
Lesson 3
Drafting Basic Kimono Bodice
How to draft the basic kimono bodice pattern as the foundation for the Debbie dress project. I demonstrate tracing the back and front bodice blocks, making adjustments for the kimono sleeve, and blending the patterns together.
26 mins
Cutting Basic Kimono Sample
Lesson 4
Cutting Basic Kimono Sample
I demonstrate how to cut and sew a basic kimono sample dress. This serves as a trial run to understand how the garment will drape and fit on the body before cutting into the final fabric.
3 mins
Fitting Basic Kimono 1st Sample
Lesson 5
Fitting Basic Kimono 1st Sample
I demonstrate fitting the basic kimono bodice sample on a dress form. I show how the bodice looks without darts closed, then closed the darts for a more fitted look. I also experiment with gathering the waist using an elastic.
17 mins
Correcting Basic Kimono Pattern
Lesson 6
Correcting Basic Kimono Pattern
How to correct and finalize the pattern for the Debbie dress. I demonstrate marking the key points like shoulder, waistline, sleeve length, and neckline on the muslin and transferring them to the paper pattern. I also show how to add extra ease around the waist if needed.
19 mins
Elongating Kimono Bodice to Torso and Drafting Dolman Sleeve Torso Foundation
Lesson 7
Elongating Kimono Bodice to Torso and Drafting Dolman Sleeve Torso Foundation
How to elongate the kimono bodice pattern to create a torso foundation and draft a dolman sleeve. I demonstrate extending the length, blending the side seams, and modifying the shoulder area to achieve the desired dolman sleeve silhouette.
38 mins
Drafting Debbie Bodice and Facing
Lesson 8
Drafting Debbie Bodice and Facing
How to draft the bodice pattern and facing for the Debbie dress using the kimono sleeve bodice foundation. I demonstrate copying the front and back bodice pieces, creating the v-neckline, separating the sleeve, and adding seam allowances.
44 mins
Debbie Dress Full Circle Skirt Review
Lesson 9
Debbie Dress Full Circle Skirt Review
I review the measurements and design for the full circle skirt of the Debbie dress. I explain that I wanted a two-half circle skirt with a center back seam, resulting in three seams total. I also provide the circumference measurement for the waist, which will be used to draft the skirt pattern.
2 mins
Drafting Full Circle Skirt Part 1 - Two Different Methods for Waist Calculation
Lesson 10
Drafting Full Circle Skirt Part 1 - Two Different Methods for Waist Calculation
In this lesson, I teach two different methods to calculate the waist measurement for drafting a full or half circle skirt. The first method follows standard pattern making calculations, while the second is my own simplified technique using just the waist circumference and skirt length.
30 mins
Drafting Circle Skirt - Information PDF
Lesson 11
Drafting Circle Skirt - Information PDF
Print this PDF for future reference!

Sewing Debbie Dolman Sleeve Top

Sewing Debbie Dolman Sleeve Top - Part 1
Lesson 12
Sewing Debbie Dolman Sleeve Top - Part 1
I demonstrate sewing the front and back pieces of a dolman sleeve top. I aim to create an open area at the back center for easy dressing without a zipper, finishing the seams neatly with bias binding and French seams.
30 mins
Sewing Debbie Dolman Sleeve Top - Part 2
Lesson 13
Sewing Debbie Dolman Sleeve Top - Part 2
I demonstrate finishing the inside of the shirt with clean French seams, level the hem and neckline, and attach bias binding around the bottom hem and neckline.
20 mins

Sewing the Silk Debbie Dress

Cutting Silk Debbie Dress
Lesson 14
Cutting Silk Debbie Dress
How to carefully cut the silk charmeuse fabrics for the Debbie dress, ensuring the beautiful ombre pattern is positioned correctly. I also cut the facings, sleeves, and pockets from the remaining fabric pieces, aiming to minimize waste with this luxurious material.
27 mins
Part 1: Sewing the Bodice, Preparing Facing & Straps
Lesson 15
Part 1: Sewing the Bodice, Preparing Facing & Straps
In this session, I teach how to prepare the facings and attach the straps for the Debbie dress top. I interface the front and back neckline facings, then attach bias strips at specific points to create the spaghetti strap ties.
30 mins
Part 2: Sewing Bodice Facing & Sleeves
Lesson 16
Part 2: Sewing Bodice Facing & Sleeves
How to add a bias strip and clean the sides of the silk dress, creating a neat and polished finish. I also demonstrate attaching the facing to the neckline and sewing the side seams using the French seam technique before attaching the sleeves.
43 mins
Part 3: Sewing Skirt with Hong Kong Seam & Hem (Baby Hem on Silk)
Lesson 17
Part 3: Sewing Skirt with Hong Kong Seam & Hem (Baby Hem on Silk)
How to prepare the skirt pieces for attaching pockets and the zipper. I level the hem, bias bind the side seams and center back, mark pocket and zipper placements, and sew the side seams together.
33 mins
Part 4: Finishing Hem & Sewing Pockets
Lesson 18
Part 4: Finishing Hem & Sewing Pockets
How to sew the hem of the silk dress skirt and attach the pockets. I demonstrate folding and stitching the hem with a tiny fold, then attaching the pockets to the side seams of the skirt in a way that minimizes bulk and pulling on the delicate silk fabric.
28 mins
Part 5: Attaching Skirt & Top, Sewing Invisible Zipper
Lesson 19
Part 5: Attaching Skirt & Top, Sewing Invisible Zipper
How to attach the skirt to the bodice of the Debbie dress. I demonstrate easing in the excess fabric from the skirt waistline to match the bodice waistline and attaching an invisible zipper to the skirt.
22 mins
Part 6: Attaching Elastic Waistband Casing to Skirt, Hand-Finishing the Dress
Lesson 20
Part 6: Attaching Elastic Waistband Casing to Skirt, Hand-Finishing the Dress
I discover a mistake in attaching the bodice pieces but find a solution by adding straps and an elastic waistband to unify the dress design. I cover the raw edges with bias binding for a clean finish.
45 mins

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