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Dress Project: Brooke

6 hrs 11 mins

Welcome to the Brooke Dress Project!

A stylish and versatile dress with a soft, fluid drape at the front that flatters your body shape and enhances your style.


In this Project, you’ll learn:

  •  It is a creative draping technique that creates a variety of different styles by placing a thin strap at the tip of the CF fold and creating a different draped option at the front.
  •  The technique can be applied to a variety of garments, including skirts, dresses, and tops.
  • A sewing pattern will be generated by following and transferring the drape.
  • Using two fabrics is optional, and can only be done on separate fabrics or on just one.
  • This project covers draping, transferring to sewing patterns, sewing, and finishing instructions.


Brooke Dress Description:

  • A knee-length, 2 colored 100% Silk cocktail dress with several drape options,
  • Sleeveless, V neck with facing around the neck and armhole,
  • Side Pockets
  • Visible zipper in the CB,
  • Hong Kong seam finishing and French seam finishing, 
  • Easy to pull on and wear,
  • Can be adjusted in different sizes from the armhole/ neckline down,
  • Straps attached to the garment that can be worn on top or underneath for different silhouettes.


Technique and Construction

  • Creative fold applied to flat muslin,
  • Muslin placed on Dress form, drape position determined
  • Draping on a stand, marking, and turning into a paper pattern
  • Drafting facing pattern and pockets
  • The dress is sewn with a single needle straight stitch industrial machine  
    (You can use different stitching and finishing options) 


Fabric and Notions:

Approximately you need 2 to 2 ½”  yards of fabric for this project, depending on the length of your choosing and the width of your fabric. 

2 and 2 ½” of muslin for draping

15” or 18” zipper 

My fabrics are 100% Silk Crepe and Silk Charmeuse, with lightweight Silk Charmeuse bias bindings and facing.


Fabrics that can be used: 

Any fabric that has a good drape, meaning it is flowy, hangs and moves in a fluid, body-skimming manner.

Lightweight, mid-weight Crepe, mid-weight Interlock knit or woven, mid-weight viscose or Rayon Jersey ( lightweight might be needed to lined) Mid- weight or Heavy-weight georgette (any fabric that has a nice drape for the similar silhouette), lightweight wool Gabardine (check for the drape), Wool knit or Jersey.

LESSONS

Introduction

PDF: Brooke Dress Project
Lesson 1
PDF: Brooke Dress Project
Print this PDF for future reference!
Introduction
Lesson 2
Introduction
In this session, I taught a creative draping technique that involves creating a 3D form or creative fold on the fabric before draping it on the dress form. This simple yet effective method can produce beautiful drapes, with the final look varying depending on the fabric used.
2 mins

Draping

Preparation for Draping
Lesson 3
Preparation for Draping
I teach a technique to create a 3D drape effect on a flat fabric surface, which can then be transferred to a dress form or your own body shape. I discuss straight grain vs. cross grain, the importance of using a fabric with the right drape, and show you how to mark the fabric in preparation for creating the draped front detail.
5 mins
Draping the Front
Lesson 4
Draping the Front
In this session, I teach how to drape a dress with an interesting draped front detail. The dress has a V-neckline in the front and a soft boatneck in the back. I demonstrate creating a tapered, draped look on the front by manipulating the fabric and pinning it in place.
29 mins
Draping the Back
Lesson 5
Draping the Back
I demonstrate how to drape the back piece of a dress on the dress form, including marking darts, grainlines, and attaching the front piece. I also show a trick for adding a waist tie detail by creating an opening in the front draping.
25 mins

Patternmaking

Marking Before Transferring to Pattern
Lesson 6
Marking Before Transferring to Pattern
In this lesson, I teach how to adjust the skirt length and hemline for a draped dress. I demonstrate the process on a dress form, marking the desired knee-length and making necessary adjustments to ensure a proper fit.
5 mins
Transferring the Muslin to Pattern
Lesson 7
Transferring the Muslin to Pattern
I teach how to transfer the draped front piece onto paper to create a pattern. I show the steps to open up the draped folds, trace the lines, and make adjustments for symmetry on both sides of the pattern. I also demonstrate transferring the back piece, making armhole adjustments, and preparing the pattern for cutting.
40 mins
How to Add Facing / Lining, Options of Finishing, Adding Pockets
Lesson 8
How to Add Facing / Lining, Options of Finishing, Adding Pockets
I discuss the different options for finishing the neckline, armholes, and hem of a draped dress pattern, including facing, lining, or leaving it unlined. I demonstrate on a dress form how to determine the facing pattern pieces by pinning and tracing the desired facing area.
33 mins

Sewing & Finishing

Fabrics and Cutting
Lesson 9
Fabrics and Cutting
In this session, I went over the different fabrics I'll be using for a draped dress project - a viscose crepe back satin for the front and back, and a silk charmeuse for the facings and pockets. I explained my reasoning for using the skin-toned charmeuse for areas like the neckline to avoid show-through.
24 mins
Sewing 1: Front Seam, Back Darts, Bias Binding Seams
Lesson 10
Sewing 1: Front Seam, Back Darts, Bias Binding Seams
How to finish the seams and construct the front and back pieces of a dress using French seams, bias binding, and darts. I demonstrate the steps for a clean, professional finish suitable for high-end garments.
31 mins
Sewing 2: Back Zipper, Dress Facing
Lesson 11
Sewing 2: Back Zipper, Dress Facing
How to construct a dress with a facing and zipper installation. I demonstrate attaching the front and back shoulders, followed by attaching the facing around the neckline and armholes. I also show how to insert a separating zipper at the back and finish the neckline area neatly.
30 mins
Sewing 3: Finishing Facing, Closing Sides & Center Back
Lesson 12
Sewing 3: Finishing Facing, Closing Sides & Center Back
How to finish the facings by covering the raw edges with bias binding. I also prepare the side seams for attaching the pockets in the next step.
54 mins
Sewing 4: Attaching Pockets
Lesson 13
Sewing 4: Attaching Pockets
In this session, I teach how to construct pockets on a draped silk dress. I demonstrate sewing French seams for the pocket bags and attaching them neatly to the side seams of the dress.
48 mins
Sewing 5: Finalizing All Finishings & Closing Hem
Lesson 14
Sewing 5: Finalizing All Finishings & Closing Hem
How to attach a thin waistband to a dress. I cut strips of fabric on the cross-grain to make a non-stretchy waistband. Then I sew the strips together to create one long waistband piece.
45 mins

Presentation

Presenting Brooke Dress & How to Style the Look
Lesson 15
Presenting Brooke Dress & How to Style the Look
A final look at our completed dress! I also demonstrate adding a waistband, adjusting the silhouette using straps.
4 mins
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