Oversized Shirt Drafting a Convertible Collar

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In this lesson, I taught how to draft a convertible collar for the oversized shirt. A convertible collar is a simpler style of collar that doesn’t have a stand and falls naturally, commonly used for casual shirts, especially in womenswear.

I demonstrated the steps to draft a convertible collar pattern, including measuring the neck circumference, determining the collar depth, shaping the neckline curve, and adding seam allowances. I also explained how to draft a slightly smaller under collar cut on the bias to achieve a nice rolled edge.

Lesson Steps:

  • Measure the front and back neck circumference and calculate the total
  • Fold paper in half and draw half the neck measurement as a straight line
  • Determine the collar depth (width) and draw that measurement perpendicular
  • Shape the neckline curve by curving from the depth line to the center front
  • Shape the collar point as desired (rounded, pointed, etc.)
  • Mark the shoulder point and center back
  • Add seam allowances (1/4″ at neck edge, 1″ at bottom)
  • Transfer pattern to draft a slightly smaller under collar cut on the bias
  • The under collar should be 1/8″ smaller at the neck edge, tapering to regular size

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