In this guide, I teach how to perform dart manipulation, specifically moving a shoulder dart to the armhole.

I demonstrate the process of closing the original dart, opening up a new dart at the armhole, and creating a smooth transition that follows the armhole curve. This technique helps create a better fit around the bust area while maintaining a clean finish.

Lesson Steps:

1. Identify the apex (bust point) on your pattern.
2. Close the original shoulder dart.
3. Draw a line from the armhole to the apex.
4. Cut along this line and pivot the pattern to open up the new dart.
5. Mark the center of the new dart about 1 inch from the apex.
6. Draw the new dart legs, ensuring they stop about 2 cm short of the apex.
7. Fold the dart toward the bottom of the pattern.
8. Shape the folded edge to follow the armhole curve.
9. Open up the pattern to reveal a rounded, nested dart.

I emphasize the importance of following the armhole line when shaping the dart fold. This technique ensures a smooth transition and eliminates any unsightly excess fabric when the dart is sewn.

Remember, we typically fold darts downward, not upward, to achieve the best results.