In this guide, I demonstrate how to adjust the bust dart on a pattern to create a more natural and modern silhouette.

I show you how to close the dart at the neckline, add paper to accommodate the adjustment, and then redraw the dart to smooth out the bust area. I also explain how to transfer the excess fabric from the dart to the waist for a better fit.

Lesson Steps:

1. Create a diagonal line from the side seam to the bust point.
2. Close the dart at the neckline and add paper to accommodate the adjustment.
3. Identify the center of the dart axis and mark a point about 2 cm (or 1 inch) out from the apex.
4. Draw a new dart from the opening to this new point.
5. Use a tracing wheel to mark the fold of the dart.
6. Fold the excess fabric downwards towards the waist.
7. Trace the new dart line, which will be your adjusted bust dart.