In this guide, I teach how to manipulate darts for larger bust sizes, specifically focusing on creating a fitted bodice with multiple darts.

I demonstrate how to transfer a waist dart to the shoulder for better bust accommodation, and explain the importance of proper dart placement and size for different body types. I also show how to handle large darts by either adding seam allowance or sewing and trimming excess fabric.

Lesson Steps:

1. Start with a basic bodice pattern that has a waist dart.
2. If needed, add a second dart from the shoulder to the bust point for better fit.
3. Draw the new shoulder dart from the middle of the shoulder to the bust point.
4. Close the shoulder dart by folding and overlapping the pattern pieces.
5. Ensure the pattern lies flat after closing the dart.
6. For the bust dart, mark the middle of the dart and end it about an inch (or 2 cm) away from the apex.
7. If the resulting bust dart is very large, either add seam allowance and cut excess fabric, or sew along the fold and trim after.

Remember, the size of the darts will vary depending on the individual’s measurements.

The example I show is for a UK size 14 or above with a D or DD cup, so smaller sizes will have proportionally smaller darts.

Always adjust according to your specific measurements for the best fit.