This guide demonstrates how to drape a fitted bodice with armhole and waist darts, suitable for larger bust sizes.

It provides step-by-step instructions on positioning the fabric, marking the darts, and shaping the bodice on a dress form.

The process involves pinning, folding, and adjusting the fabric to achieve a clean, fitted look around the bust, armhole, and waist areas.

Lesson Steps:

1. Prepare the muslin fabric by cutting it to the desired length and width, folding the center front, and marking the bust level.
2. Create a bust bridge by adding a strip of fabric at the center front if needed.
3. Position the fabric on the dress form, pinning at the center front, neck, and shoulders.
4. Release tension around the neck by cutting small slashes or openings.
5. Pin the bust level on the cross-grain, ensuring it’s level with the bust.
6. Mark the waist dart point by smoothing the fabric around the waist area.
7. Release tension around the waist by cutting small slashes or openings.
8. Mark the armhole dart by pinching and folding the excess fabric at the armhole area.
9. Draw the armhole shape and open it up slightly.
10. Fold and pin the armhole dart, following the fabric’s natural fold direction.
11. Brush the fabric down to the waist, pinning at the side seam and waist.
12. Pinch and pin the waist dart, releasing tension as needed.
13. Fold and pin the waist dart, adjusting the direction if necessary.
14. Draw the waist and dart lines, marking the dart legs and end points.
15. Optionally, make corrections to the side seam or dart positions for a better fit.
16. Close the darts by machine or hand sewing.
17. Pin the bodice on the dress form and make final adjustments if needed.
18. Transfer the draped bodice pattern to paper, making any necessary corrections.