This guide demonstrates how to create extra fabric and gather or pleat it into various styles around the bust area using draping techniques.
It shows different methods to achieve vintage-inspired looks with curved darts, pleats, and gathers, as well as how to stabilize the draped fabric and prepare it for constructing the final garment.
I work through multiple examples live, explaining and adjusting as needed.
Lesson Steps:
- Release darts and smooth fabric around neck and armholes
- Cut away minimal fabric from armholes if needed, leaving excess at waist
- Shift fabric to desired grain line (straight or bias) and pin
- Decide on amount of gathering/pleating wanted and cut away excess at waist if too much
- Create first pleat/dart by stretching fabric and pinning outside the style line
- Continue pleating/darting, pinning each one outside the style line
- Stabilize center front and fold darts along style line
- Secure pleats by taping or basting along style line
- For alternate empire look, draw style line higher between bust points
- Cut along style line, leaving seam allowance to fold back on itself
- Repeat pleating process, securing pleats when finished
- Mark pleat positions if desired before stitching to garment lining
