In this guide, I teach how to create a fitted bodice block with only a waist dart, which is suitable for smaller cup sizes (A-B).

I explain the process of closing the waist dart to achieve a more fitted look, and discuss when this technique is appropriate based on bust size and desired fit.

I also touch on when additional darts might be necessary for larger cup sizes or for achieving a super-fitted look in the upper bodice area.

Steps for creating a fitted bodice block with only a waist dart:

1. Apply the initial waist dart.
2. Cut the middle of the dart at the waist.
3. Place paper underneath the cut.
4. Close the dart to create a more fitted waist.
5. Fold the pattern along the middle of the dart.
6. Walk through the pattern to ensure accuracy.
7. Open up the pattern to reveal the larger waist dart.

It’s important to note that this technique works best for cup sizes A-B.

For larger cup sizes or if you want a super-fitted look in the upper bodice, you may need to add additional darts around the bust area.

However, if you’re okay with some extra room in the upper bodice, such as when adding a sleeve, this method can still work for slightly larger cup sizes.