This guide demonstrates how to create a custom jersey knit skirt pattern based on your body measurements.
It covers the necessary measurements (waist, hip, knee circumferences, and waist-to-hip length), adjustments for different fabric stretch levels, and pattern drafting techniques for the front and back pieces, including accommodating body shape variations.
The guide also explains how to draft a waistband pattern and provides tips on achieving the desired skirt silhouette (straight or A-line).
Instructional Steps:
- Gather necessary measurements: waist circumference, hip circumference, knee circumference (or desired hem length), and waist-to-hip length.
- Determine the stretch level of your jersey fabric by testing its maximum stretch without creating horizontal lines.
- Draw the basic skirt pattern pieces:
a. Draw a straight line for the waist measurement and mark the center front.
b. Measure down from the waist line using the waist-to-hip length and draw the hip line.
c. Divide the waist and hip measurements by 2 and mark these points on the respective lines.
d. Divide the knee measurement by 2 and mark these points on the desired hem line.
e. Connect the marked points to create the basic front and back pattern pieces.
- Adjust the pattern pieces based on fabric stretch and body shape:
a. For firmer jersey with less stretch, take in the pattern by 1/2 inch all around.
b. For stretchier jersey, take in the pattern more (e.g., 1 inch all around) to avoid horizontal lines.
c. If your back hip is significantly larger than the front, extend the back pattern piece at the hip area.
d. For the front piece, curve the waistline down slightly (about 1 cm) for a better fit.
e. For the back piece, raise the waistline slightly (about 3/4 inch) to accommodate the curve of the back.
- Draft the waistband pattern (optional):
a. Decide on the desired waistband height and mark it below the waist line on the pattern.
b. Trace the waistline, side seams, and the marked waistband line to create the waistband pattern.
c. Adjust the waistband pattern for a tighter or looser fit if desired (no more than 1/2 inch).
d. Cut the waistband pattern on the fold or as separate front and back pieces.
- Adjust the skirt pattern for desired silhouette (straight or A-line):
a. For a straight skirt, continue the hip line straight down to the desired length.
b. For an A-line skirt, flare out the pattern pieces from the hip line to create the desired width at the hem.
- Sew and try on the skirt, making further adjustments as needed for the perfect fit.