In this guide, I demonstrate how to modify and transfer darts from the bust area to different locations like the armhole or shoulder.
I explain the step-by-step process of closing the original dart, opening up the new desired location, transferring the excess fabric, and adjusting the pattern lines accordingly.
I emphasize the importance of testing the modifications on a muslin sample and dress form to ensure a proper fit, especially for larger bust sizes.
Steps for Transferring Bust Dart to Armhole:
- Copy the original pattern block with bust and waist darts.
- Close the bust dart by connecting the dart legs to the apex.
- Open up the armhole area by slashing from the apex outward and spread the pattern.
- Add paper underneath to straighten the armhole curve.
- Tape and true the new armhole curve.
- Shorten the original dart leg by about 1 inch above the apex.
- Close the shortened dart by folding the legs together.
- Adjust the armhole curve as needed to accommodate the new dart placement.
- Transfer the modifications to a muslin and test the fit on a dress form.
Steps for Transferring Bust Dart to Shoulder:
- Identify the bust apex and original dart legs.
- Choose the desired shoulder location for the new dart placement.
- Slash from the apex to the new shoulder location and spread the pattern.
- Add paper underneath to straighten the shoulder line.
- Close the original bust dart by folding the legs together.
- Shorten the dart leg by about 1 inch above the apex.
- Close the shortened dart by folding the legs together at the shoulder.
- Adjust the shoulder seam as needed to accommodate the new dart placement.
- Transfer the modifications to a muslin and test the fit on a dress form.