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Variation of Dart from 2-Dart Bodice

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In this guide, I demonstrate how to modify and transfer darts from the bust area to different locations like the armhole or shoulder.

I explain the step-by-step process of closing the original dart, opening up the new desired location, transferring the excess fabric, and adjusting the pattern lines accordingly.

I emphasize the importance of testing the modifications on a muslin sample and dress form to ensure a proper fit, especially for larger bust sizes.

Steps for Transferring Bust Dart to Armhole:

  1. Copy the original pattern block with bust and waist darts.
  2. Close the bust dart by connecting the dart legs to the apex.
  3. Open up the armhole area by slashing from the apex outward and spread the pattern.
  4. Add paper underneath to straighten the armhole curve.
  5. Tape and true the new armhole curve.
  6. Shorten the original dart leg by about 1 inch above the apex.
  7. Close the shortened dart by folding the legs together.
  8. Adjust the armhole curve as needed to accommodate the new dart placement.
  9. Transfer the modifications to a muslin and test the fit on a dress form.

Steps for Transferring Bust Dart to Shoulder:

  1. Identify the bust apex and original dart legs.
  2. Choose the desired shoulder location for the new dart placement.
  3. Slash from the apex to the new shoulder location and spread the pattern.
  4. Add paper underneath to straighten the shoulder line.
  5. Close the original bust dart by folding the legs together.
  6. Shorten the dart leg by about 1 inch above the apex.
  7. Close the shortened dart by folding the legs together at the shoulder.
  8. Adjust the shoulder seam as needed to accommodate the new dart placement.
  9. Transfer the modifications to a muslin and test the fit on a dress form.

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