Tailored Trouser Construction - Sewing Pockets with Facing and Fly
In this session, I continued working on our tailored trousers project.
I didn't answer any direct questions since I focused fully on the step-by-step construction of the trousers. I demonstrated how to sew the pocket with facing and lining pocket bag which contains of several small pieces for constructing the pocket, this way I covered both pocket styles with this project.
Pockets with facing and pocket bag linings are usually used in most of tailored suits or trousers with heavier, fancier fabrics, or woolen fabrics.
I also demonstrated step-by-step sewing of trousers front fly with zipper.
The front fly and zipper steps can definitely get confusing, so I went slowly and explained each stage. My goal was to demonstrate the whole process start to finish. Next session I’ll finish the trousers so we can see the end results!
Demonstrated steps:
-Worked on the second side of trouser pockets, including pocket facing and lining
-Serged the raw edges, and prepared pocket pieces
-Marked all notches again after overlocking to make sure every seam align correctly
-Showed techniques for finishing pocket with overlocking and French seams
-Aligned and sewn the front fly pieces correctly
-Showed how to attach the zipper and fly guard to the trousers
Question:
- What's the best way to ensure pockets lay flat and don't bulge? Answer:
- To ensure pockets lay flat, pay attention to the pocket placement and the type of fabric used for the pocket bags.
- If you have heavier fabrics, make sure to use soft and lighter fabrics as pocket lining.
- Also it is a good idea, to give more ease around your hip starting below your waist and blend with thighs outer seam.
- Secure the pocket bag edges neatly to the waist or to the CF if it designed that way. You can also secure the bottom edge of the pocket to the side seam to prevent bulging of the pocket bag.
- If you're designing pockets for your trousers, especially fitted trousers, it's better to keep the openings small. Large openings tend to open wide during movement on fitted trousers.
