Live Session (December 2nd, 2023)

Trouser Construction: Mastering Pockets and Front Fly

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In this week’s session, I continued our trouser project, focusing on constructing two types of pockets and the front fly. We covered the steps for creating a simple pocket as well as a more complex pocket with facing and lining. I then demonstrated how to construct and attach the front fly, including the zipper and fly guard.

Demonstration Steps:

  1. Created a complex pocket with facing and lining
  2. Attached the pocket to the trouser front
  3. Prepared the front fly pieces and zipper
  4. Attached the zipper to one side of the trouser front
  5. Constructed and attached the fly guard
  6. Completed the fly by attaching the other side and topstitching

Questions & Answers:

  • Q: Should we French seam or bias bind the pocket edges?
  • A: I prefer French seams for a cleaner finish, but you can choose based on your fabric and preference.

  • Q: How do you prevent the zipper from showing through when the fly is closed?
  • A: Ensure you’re stitching the correct distance from the edge and that the fly guard is properly positioned to cover the zipper.

This session covered some of the more complex aspects of trouser construction. Next week, we’ll finish the trousers by completing the back darts, side seams, and waistband. I’ll also provide resources for adding welt pockets to the back if you’d like to include those in your project.

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