In this week’s session, I discussed our progress on the Amanda dress project and answered questions about fabric handling, particularly for slippery fabrics. I also gave an update on the upcoming jacket project and shared some tips on stabilizing seams and using stay tape.

Questions & Answers:

• Q: How do I handle thin and slippery fabrics when cutting?
• A: Use silk pins in the seam allowance, place thin paper underneath for stability, cut each piece individually, use a rotary cutter with a new blade, and iron the fabric before cutting. Don’t let the fabric hang off the table.

• Q: What is the ribbon-like material used to stabilize the bodice?
• A: It’s stay tape, specifically rayon seam binding. It’s very thin and soft, used to reinforce areas prone to stretching like around the breast and sides.

• Q: What stitch length do you recommend for sewing the Amanda dress?
• A: I use 2.5 on my industrial machine. For home machines, 2 to 2.5 is good for most fabrics. Use 3 or 4 for temporary stitching, and 1.5 for very thin areas requiring a seamless look.

• Q: How much ease can we achieve in a breast curve without gathering along the princess seam?
• A: I prefer no ease, but up to a quarter inch is doable. Place the less stretchy piece on top when sewing curved seams.

• Q: How do I fix darts that are too long in the Amanda dress?
• A: Stop the darts before they hit the hip line, regardless of how much fabric folds. Move side seam darts to the seam line for a continuous line.

I also announced that we’ll now be doing live Q&A sessions every Thursday, alternating between 11 AM and 3 PM Pacific time, to better accommodate different time zones.