In this week’s session, I walked members through the process of drafting a pattern for a gathered yoke skirt inspired by a Dolce & Gabbana design. We focused on creating the yoke, calculating gathering ratios, and adding flare to the skirt hem. I emphasized the importance of fabric choice and gathering amounts in achieving a luxurious look, which we’ll explore further next week.
Demonstration Steps:
- Traced and modified the basic skirt block, dropping the waistline by 1 inch
- Determined yoke placement and separated yoke from skirt pieces
- Added gathering expansion to skirt pieces (2:1 ratio)
- Created flare at the hem by widening skirt pieces
- Added seam allowances and notches
- Calculated and marked gathering amounts for each skirt section
Questions & Answers:
- Q: How do you decide on the amount of gathering for a skirt?
- A: It depends on the fabric and desired look. We’ll explore this more next week with fabric samples, but generally 2:1 is standard, while 3:1 or 4:1 works well for lighter fabrics like chiffon.
- Q: What’s the benefit of drafting the pattern this way versus just gathering a straight piece of fabric?
- A: This method gives you more control over the final shape and gathering distribution, especially important when working with expensive fabrics or aiming for a specific silhouette.
Next week, we’ll finish the back pattern piece, explore different yoke options, and discuss how fabric choice affects gathering amounts. I’ll also demonstrate some shortcuts for determining ideal gathering ratios without extensive pattern work.
