Tracing and Adjusting Trouser Block Patterns

September 12th, 2023

Tracing and Adjusting Trouser Block Patterns

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In this week’s session, I focused on tracing and adjusting trouser block patterns, including adding ease to the back crotch, curving the waistline, and modifying leg shapes. I demonstrated how to transfer the master block to pattern paper, make key adjustments for fit and style, and prepare the pattern for a first sample. We also discussed plans for future sessions on jackets and more advanced trouser designs.

Demonstration steps:

  1. Traced front and back trouser block pieces onto dot paper
  2. Added ease to the back crotch curve (3-7 cm)
  3. Curved the front waistline down at center front
  4. Curved the back hem slightly
  5. Demonstrated how to adjust for a straighter leg style
  6. Explained how to true side seams between front and back pieces
  7. Added seam allowances (except at waist and hem)

Questions & Answers:

  • Q: Is it necessary to round the hem on the back pattern piece?
  • A: Yes, it helps accommodate the calf shape and prevents the back from pulling up when walking. Add about 1 cm at center back and blend to side seams.

  • Q: How do I adjust the pattern if the hip and knee curves don’t match between front and back?
  • A: Use the larger curve and blend. It’s easier to take in excess fabric later than to add more if it’s too tight.

  • Q: Do you have a tutorial on increasing the bust line for a pattern?
  • A: I don’t have a specific video on this, but I can demonstrate how to increase circumference at the bust in a future session. Let me know if you need this explained sooner.

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