Dress Project: Debbie Top

3 hrs 28 mins

Difficulty:

Welcome to the Debbie Top Project!

In this Project, you will be able to develop:

Kimono Sleeve Bodice foundation
Dolman Sleeve Torso foundation
Batwing Sleeve Torso Foundation for Jersey

Debbie Dolman Sleeve Blouse

Round neck
Semi Relaxed fit
Three Quarter Sleeve length
Length: 1” above Hip
Fabric Used: Mid-weight 100% silk, Crepe back Satin
Details: Semi Relaxed fit with dolman sleeves starting from above the waist point. Bias binded neckline with slit and button. Used French Seam on all visible seams, bias binds around the neckline, sleeve and hem.

Debbie Batwing Jersey Top

Boat Neck
Relaxed Fit
Long Sleeve
Length: Hipline
Fabric: Lightweight 4 way stretch Rayon Jersey (2 way stretch works too)
Details: Neckline, sleeves are self fabric binded, bottom of the top is coverstitched

Technique of Construction

Drafting first on pattern paper
Sample cutting and fitting on dress form
Correcting patterns and turning into Debbie Top Pattern.

Fabrics & Materials For Construction

Muslin:

For kimono Bodice Foundation Sample fit, 1 yard
For Dolman Sleeve Foundation Sample Fit 1 ¼ yard
For Batwing Foundation Sample Fit 1 ½ Yard (Jersey)

Fabrics That Can be Used for all Debbie Project Pieces

For more draped look : Any content Polyester or Silk, Satin, Charmeuse, Crepe, Georgette, Chiffon, Crépe de Chine, Polyester or Silk Gauze, Crepe Back Satin

Fore more Bodied look: Lightweight Linen, Silk Twill, Silk Organza, Cotton Seersucker, Cotton Batiste, Eyelet Cotton, Poplin, Lightweight Denim, Lightweight Brocade,

Jersey:

For a more draped look: Lightweight, mid-weight Interlock, 2 way stretch, silk, rayon, viscose lightweight Jersey, single jerseys, or lightweight double jersey, Micro Modal, Bamboo

For a more bodied look: Lightweight Jacquard jersey, double jersey. Punto Roma.

(P.S. These project videos have been applied to Woven fabric. If you decide to apply to Jersey and have questions, please ask during Live Q&A Sessions)

LESSONS

Introduction

Lesson 1

Fabrics & Materials Information PDF

Print this PDF for future reference!

Lesson 2

Debbie Design Overview

An overview of the Debbie dress design, which is inspired by the kimono sleeve look and features a relaxed, airy silhouette with a westernized, modernized kimono-style top and a full or half-circle skirt.

10 mins

Drafting

Lesson 3

Drafting Basic Kimono Bodice

How to draft the basic kimono bodice pattern as the foundation for the Debbie dress project. I demonstrate tracing the back and front bodice blocks, making adjustments for the kimono sleeve, and blending the patterns together.

26 mins

Lesson 4

Cutting Basic Kimono Sample

I demonstrate how to cut and sew a basic kimono sample dress. This serves as a trial run to understand how the garment will drape and fit on the body before cutting into the final fabric.

3 mins

Lesson 5

Fitting Basic Kimono 1st Sample

I demonstrate fitting the basic kimono bodice sample on a dress form. I show how the bodice looks without darts closed, then closed the darts for a more fitted look. I also experiment with gathering the waist using an elastic.

17 mins

Lesson 6

Correcting Basic Kimono Pattern

How to correct and finalize the pattern for the Debbie dress. I demonstrate marking the key points like shoulder, waistline, sleeve length, and neckline on the muslin and transferring them to the paper pattern. I also show how to add extra ease around the waist if needed.

19 mins

Lesson 7

Elongating Kimono Bodice to Torso and Drafting Dolman Sleeve Torso Foundation

How to elongate the kimono bodice pattern to create a torso foundation and draft a dolman sleeve. I demonstrate extending the length, blending the side seams, and modifying the shoulder area to achieve the desired dolman sleeve silhouette.

38 mins

Lesson 8

Drafting Debbie Bodice and Facing

How to draft the bodice pattern and facing for the Debbie dress using the kimono sleeve bodice foundation. I demonstrate copying the front and back bodice pieces, creating the v-neckline, separating the sleeve, and adding seam allowances.

44 mins

Sewing Debbie Dolman Sleeve Top

Lesson 9

Sewing Debbie Dolman Sleeve Top - Part 1

I demonstrate sewing the front and back pieces of a dolman sleeve top. I aim to create an open area at the back center for easy dressing without a zipper, finishing the seams neatly with bias binding and French seams.

30 mins

Lesson 10

Sewing Debbie Dolman Sleeve Top - Part 2

I demonstrate finishing the inside of the shirt with clean French seams, level the hem and neckline, and attach bias binding around the bottom hem and neckline.

20 mins

RECOMMENDED GUIDES

How to Sew Inseam Pockets

How To Sew Inseam Pockets

This sewing-techniques video for beginners teachehs how to sew inseam pockets, in 2 different ways.

How to Sew Elastic Casing Waistband

How to Make a Waistband Casing (Non Visible)

Binded Neckline with Slit and Button Loop

How to sew a binded neckline with slit and button loop.

Bias Binding Neckline without Top Stitch (Advanced Level)

This video shows how to sew a bias binding to neckline (no top-stitch).

Alternate Look: Binding Neckline without Prefold Bias Strips (Advanced Level)

This video demonstrates how to sew a bias binding to neckline.

Sewing Inseam Pocket With French Seam

Type of Seam Finishes for Woven Fabrics Without Serger

Neckline Binding For Knits, Without Coverstitch

Neckline Binding For Knits, with Coverstitch or ZigZag Stretch Stitch

Neckline Binding For Knits, With Serger and Straight Stitch Machine

Tips: Sewing Knits Without Serger

Tips: Handling Knits Without Serger

How to Master Pressing

How to Cut Circle, Half Circle, Quarter Circle Skirts