Classic Shirt Classic Shirt Collar with Stand - Drafting and Truing

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In this session, I taught the technical steps to draft and true a classic shirt collar with stand. I followed a metric pattern cutting system to create the pattern pieces.

I demonstrated the drafting process for the collar stand and top collar piece, explaining each step meticulously. I then showed how to true the collar pieces to match the neckline and shoulder measurements. Lastly, I provided guidance on cutting layouts, grainlines, and interfacing options based on desired stiffness.

Lesson Steps:

  • Draft the collar stand base following the measurement guidelines
  • Shape the top collar piece by dividing and curving the edges slightly
  • True the collar stand to match the neckline curve and shoulder points
  • Add notches to align the collar stand and top collar during sewing
  • Determine seam allowances (typically 1/4 inch for less bulk)
  • Mark grainlines (collar on cross grain, stand on straight grain)
  • Provide cutting instructions for the collar, stand, and interfacing
  • Option: Cut under collar on bias for a softer, more relaxed look
  • Number and organize all pattern pieces for the classic shirt

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