In this session, I taught the technical steps to draft and true a classic shirt collar with stand. I followed a metric pattern cutting system to create the pattern pieces.
I demonstrated the drafting process for the collar stand and top collar piece, explaining each step meticulously. I then showed how to true the collar pieces to match the neckline and shoulder measurements. Lastly, I provided guidance on cutting layouts, grainlines, and interfacing options based on desired stiffness.
Lesson Steps:
- Draft the collar stand base following the measurement guidelines
- Shape the top collar piece by dividing and curving the edges slightly
- True the collar stand to match the neckline curve and shoulder points
- Add notches to align the collar stand and top collar during sewing
- Determine seam allowances (typically 1/4 inch for less bulk)
- Mark grainlines (collar on cross grain, stand on straight grain)
- Provide cutting instructions for the collar, stand, and interfacing
- Option: Cut under collar on bias for a softer, more relaxed look
- Number and organize all pattern pieces for the classic shirt