Closing the Back Shoulder Dart on Basic Bodice Pattern

March 25th, 2022

Closing the Back Shoulder Dart on Basic Bodice Pattern

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In this week’s session, I shared exciting updates about our new Draping Society website and demonstrated how to close the back shoulder dart on a basic bodice pattern. I also discussed future plans for the Draping Society, including potential new masterclasses and upcoming content additions to our growing online community.

Demonstration Steps for Closing the Back Shoulder Dart:

  1. Traced the back bodice block onto pattern paper
  2. Cut from the dart end straight down to the bustline
  3. Pivoted the pattern to close the dart at the shoulder
  4. Reshaped the neckline and armhole after closing the dart
  5. Adjusted the side seam length to match the front bodice
  6. Trued the pattern and finalized the new back bodice shape

Questions & Answers:

  • Q: How do I assess if my armhole is the correct size for a shirt?
  • A: For a relaxed shirt, the armhole shouldn’t be too tight. Try drafting a sleeve using the current armhole and see how it fits. You can always make adjustments later if needed.

  • Q: My hip-to-waist measurement seems longer than expected. Am I measuring incorrectly?
  • A: Your waist might be lower than you think. The waist is typically about 2 inches below your ribcage and 2 inches above your belly button, not necessarily at the smallest part of your torso.

  • Q: I’m having fit issues with my bodice. How can I improve it?
  • A: It looks like your dress form might need adjusting to better match your body shape. Try adding padding to areas that need more volume, or adjust the dress form if it’s expandable. Send me clear photos of your dress form and bodice for more specific advice.

I’m thrilled about our new website and the growing Draping Society community. We have exciting plans for the future, including potential new masterclasses on topics like design process and collection development. I’ll be away next week, but I look forward to continuing our journey together when I return.

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