Adding Ease to Patterns and Draping a Gathered Skirt

April 22nd, 2022

Adding Ease to Patterns and Draping a Gathered Skirt

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In this week’s session, I covered how to add ease to bodice and skirt patterns, answering a student’s question about this process. I also did a quick demonstration on how to drape a gathered skirt inspired by a pink H&M dress design. The session was a mix of theory explanation and practical demonstration, giving students insights into pattern adjustments and creative draping techniques.

Demonstration Steps for Gathered Skirt:

  1. Placed fabric diagonally on the dress form, with selvage at center front
  2. Lifted fabric and started gathering/pleating from the sides towards the back
  3. Secured gathers with pins or elastic
  4. Marked center front, center back, and side seams
  5. Removed from dress form and showed flat pattern shape

Questions & Answers:

  • Q: How much ease should I add to patterns and where?
  • A: Generally, add 1/4 to 1/2 inch at side seams for bodices and skirts. For bodices, also lower the armhole by 1/4 inch. Blend new lines smoothly.

  • Q: Is it better to add ease during draping or on the paper pattern?
  • A: Adding ease on the paper pattern gives more control and precision, but you can also add it during draping if you’re careful to maintain symmetry.

  • Q: Can the gathered skirt concept be applied to other garments like capes?
  • A: Yes, you can apply similar gathering techniques to add volume to capes, sleeves, or other areas of garments.

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