Fabric Grain and Stretch: Choosing the Right Orientation for Your Garments

May 6th, 2022

Fabric Grain and Stretch: Choosing the Right Orientation for Your Garments

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In this week’s session, I opened up about some personal challenges I’ve been facing and thanked the community for their support. I then delved into an in-depth discussion about fabric grain, stretch, and how to choose the right orientation when draping or constructing garments. I demonstrated how to identify straight grain, cross grain, and bias on different fabric types and explained their impact on garment fit and drape.

Demonstration Steps:

  1. Showed how to identify straight grain, cross grain, and bias on various fabric types
  2. Demonstrated how to measure stretch on different grains using a 10-inch fabric sample
  3. Explained the impact of grain orientation on garment fit, drape, and stability
  4. Discussed when to use straight grain, cross grain, or bias depending on the garment style and desired outcome
  5. Showed examples of different fabrics and their stretch properties

Questions & Answers:

  • Q: How many pounds of weight fluctuation cause the need to shift up or down in size?
  • A: It typically starts around 5-6 pounds, but by 7-10 pounds, you’ll likely need to go down a size. However, this can vary depending on where you gain or lose weight.

  • Q: Can you show how to put off-grain fabrics on grain?
  • A: I didn’t fully understand this question, but I explained how to identify grain lines and measure stretch on different fabrics. I’ll consider making a more detailed video guide on this topic for Draping Society members.

  • Q: How do you incorporate an elastic band waist in a pencil skirt made with satin?
  • A: For a pencil skirt with an elastic waistband, the fabric itself needs to be stretchy. Otherwise, you’ll need to add a zipper opening. If you want to avoid gathers at the waist, the fabric stretch should be similar to the elastic’s stretch.

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