Constructing a Bias-Cut Skirt Lining

December 8th, 2022

Constructing a Bias-Cut Skirt Lining

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In this week’s session, I demonstrated how to construct a bias-cut skirt lining for our ongoing dress project. We focused on closing pleats, attaching the lining to the main skirt, and discussed finishing techniques. The session covered essential steps in creating a well-fitted lining that complements the drape of a bias-cut skirt.

Demonstration Steps:

  1. Closed pleats on the bias-cut lining fabric and converted them to darts
  2. Pressed the closed pleats/darts to create a smooth finish
  3. Sewed the center front and back seams of the lining
  4. Attached the lining to the main skirt at the waistline and center front
  5. Discussed options for finishing the hem and side seams of the lining

Questions & Answers:

  • Q: How do I prevent the bias-cut lining from stretching?
  • A: Avoid pulling the fabric while sewing and consider using a slightly shorter stitch length to maintain stability.

  • Q: What’s the best way to finish the bottom edge of the lining?
  • A: You can use a rolled hem, bind the edge, or use a purled stitch for a clean finish. Avoid attaching it directly to the main skirt to allow for movement.

  • Q: How can I make the front panel of the skirt lay flatter?
  • A: You can add a bit of weight to the hem of the front panel, such as beads or a chain, to help it hang better. Alternatively, consider pleating instead of gathering for a flatter look.

I also mentioned upcoming additions to our Draping Society services, including new drafting courses and downloadable patterns. Next week, we’ll continue with finishing techniques for the skirt and lining.

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