Perfecting Darts and Addressing Fit Issues

December 29th, 2022

Perfecting Darts and Addressing Fit Issues

Live Session Replay

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In this week’s session, I covered several important topics related to perfecting darts and addressing common fit issues in bodice construction. We discussed techniques for eliminating pointy darts, creating concave and convex darts for better shaping, and making adjustments to patterns for improved fit. I also shared some insights on royal fashion, focusing on Catherine, Princess of Wales’ style choices and preferred designers.

Demonstration Steps:

  1. Showed how to eliminate pointy darts by sewing closer to the fold at the dart tip
  2. Demonstrated techniques for creating concave darts for rounder busts
  3. Explained how to create convex darts for better waist shaping
  4. Illustrated methods for adjusting patterns to address fit issues in the back bodice
  5. Discussed proper pressing techniques for darts and shaped areas

Questions & Answers:

  • Q: How do I fix a bodice that’s too long in the back?
  • A: Shorten the center back by pinching out excess fabric, then adjust the pattern accordingly. Also, check if you need to shorten the front bodice as well.

  • Q: Should I use curved darts for all types of garments?
  • A: Not necessarily. Use curved darts (concave or convex) when you need extra shaping, particularly for fitted garments. For looser styles, straight darts are often sufficient.

  • Q: How can I prevent my darts from becoming pointy?
  • A: Sew very close to the fold at the dart tip, gradually blending into the full width. For very wide darts, consider splitting them into two smaller darts or clipping and pressing open at the tip.

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