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Live Session (June 16th, 2023)

Creating an Armhole Princess Bodice Block using Basic Bodice Block

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In this week’s session, I demonstrated how to create an armhole princess bodice block from a basic bodice pattern. We covered transforming both the front and back pieces, focusing on dart manipulation and creating smooth, flattering curves. I also addressed some fitting issues and pattern adjustments based on student questions.

Demonstration Steps:

  1. Traced the basic bodice front and back patterns
  2. Marked new princess seam lines from armhole to waist
  3. Separated the pattern pieces along new seam lines
  4. Smoothed and adjusted curves, especially around bust area
  5. Added notches at key points like bust apex
  6. Trued the pattern pieces to ensure they match
  7. Discussed proper grainlines for the new pattern pieces

Questions & Answers:

  • Q: How do I adjust if the back is too roomy?
  • A: Pin out excess fabric starting below the shoulder blades, keeping the center back straight. Divide the excess evenly between the two back princess seams.

  • Q: Should I adjust my original block after making fitting changes?
  • A: Yes, it’s a good idea to translate major fitting changes back to your master pattern to avoid repeating adjustments.

  • Q: Is the armhole princess good for large cup sizes?
  • A: Yes, it often fits well for larger busts because it allows for more shaping around the armhole area.

Next week we’ll focus on finalizing our bodice blocks, including adjusting necklines and shoulders. We’ll then move on to different types of skirts. I’m also planning more regular live sessions for both draping and drafting once I’m settled in London.