Bodice Fitting Adjustments and Pattern Translation

June 23rd, 2023

Bodice Fitting Adjustments and Pattern Translation

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In this week’s session, I demonstrated how to make fitting adjustments to a bodice muslin and translate those changes to the pattern. We focused on identifying fit issues, making corrections on the dress form, and then transferring those adjustments accurately to create an improved bodice block. This process is crucial for developing a well-fitting base pattern that can be used for various designs.

Demonstration Steps:

  1. Put the muslin bodice on the dress form and identify fit issues
  2. Open shoulder seams and adjust for better fit
  3. Mark new neckline and shoulder placement
  4. Adjust length at center front, side seams, and center back
  5. Transfer all markings and adjustments to the paper pattern
  6. Redraw new neckline, armhole, and waistline curves
  7. True darts and seam lines
  8. Create a new bodice block incorporating all changes

Questions & Answers:

  • Q: Why did you extend the shoulder line beyond point 11?
  • A: This was specific to my dress form’s fit – I needed to adjust the back neck and shoulder to release tension and achieve a better fit. It’s not a universal rule and will vary based on individual body shapes.

  • Q: Does dropping the waist also change the lower part of the pattern?
  • A: Yes, for a longer bodice or top you’d want to drop the entire lower edge. I suggest dropping it evenly by 3cm and then testing the fit before curving or adjusting further.

Next week we’ll be shifting our focus to skirt patterns, starting with developing A-line and panel skirt blocks. These versatile blocks will allow us to create a variety of skirt designs moving forward.

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