Live Session (October 13th, 2023)

Trouser Pattern Development: From Block to Finished Design

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In this week’s session, I guided students through the process of developing a trouser pattern from our basic block to a finished design. We focused on creating pattern pieces for the fly front, pockets, facings, and waistband, while also exploring how to adjust the leg shape. The session was a mix of detailed demonstrations and answering student questions about their individual trouser projects.

Demonstration Steps:

  1. Copied the front and back trouser block patterns
  2. Developed the fly front pattern pieces
  3. Created pocket pattern pieces (front and back)
  4. Drafted waistband and facing patterns
  5. Demonstrated how to taper the leg shape
  6. Explained how to add seam allowances and notches

Questions & Answers:

  • Q: How do I add sleeves to an off-shoulder dress?
  • A: Measure from the underarm to the drop shoulder point, then draft a sleeve cap to fit that measurement. The sleeve can be gathered or fitted at the bottom.

  • Q: How can I improve the fit of my trouser muslin?
  • A: For Janine, I suggested releasing the front darts slightly and taking in the back inner leg area. For Anna-Maria, I recommended tightening the back inner crotch and thigh area slightly.

  • Q: How do I adapt a trouser pattern for a Barbie doll costume with lace-up front?
  • A: I demonstrated how to modify the front pattern to create a V-shape opening, add decorative panels, and draft facing pieces for the lace-up detail. I also suggested cutting the leg at the knee and adding a flared skirt portion for the dramatic bell-bottom shape.