In this week’s session, I began drafting the tailored jacket block pattern. We focused on taking key measurements and starting the initial pattern pieces, including the back, shoulder, and neckline. Due to time constraints, we’ll continue the drafting process in an additional session tomorrow.

Demonstration Steps:

1. Took and recorded essential measurements (bust, nape to waist, waist to hip, arm side depth, neck size, shoulder, back width, chest)
2. Determined dart size based on standardized measurements
3. Drew initial pattern lines for center back, waist, hip, and finished length
4. Marked arm side depth and back width
5. Drafted neckline and shoulder line
6. Started front piece by marking bust measurement and center front line
7. Began drafting front neckline and shoulder

Questions & Answers:

• Q: How do we determine the dart measurement for the jacket block?
• A: Look at your measurements and compare them to the standard size chart in the pattern making book. Find which size your measurements align with most closely, especially for the chest, bust, and shoulder. Use the dart measurement given for that size in the book.

• Q: Should we use the full dart measurement or half for an easy-fitting jacket?
• A: For an easy-fitting jacket, we use half of the dart measurement. This gives extra room compared to using the full dart, which is for a more fitted jacket.

• Q: How do we determine the shoulder measurement for the jacket block?
• A: Take your shoulder measurement, then add the dart allowance, plus an additional 0.5 cm for ease. For example, if your shoulder is 12 cm and dart allowance is 7.6 cm, it would be 12 + 7.6 + 0.5 = 20.1 cm.