Continuing the Semi-Fitted Jacket Block

November 4th, 2023

Continuing the Semi-Fitted Jacket Block

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In this week’s session, I continued drafting the semi-fitted jacket block pattern, focusing on completing the front bodice. We covered marking key points, drafting the armhole, shaping the center front, and creating the curved hemline. Next week, we’ll draft the two-piece sleeve block and potentially add waist shaping.

Demonstration steps:

  1. Marked additional points on the front bodice (21-31)
  2. Drafted the bust dart
  3. Created the armhole shape
  4. Added the button stand allowance
  5. Shaped the curved hemline at the bottom of the jacket
  6. Curved the back neckline (which I had forgotten earlier)

Questions & Answers:

  • Q: What fabrics do you recommend for this jacket?
  • A: For jackets, I recommend suiting fabrics, wools, or even corduroys – anything with some structure. Avoid silky, drapey fabrics. When shopping, open up about a meter of fabric to really feel how it behaves.

  • Q: How wide should the button stand be?
  • A: I recommend about 3 centimeters, but it can vary depending on your button size. You may want to check one of your existing jackets to see what looks right.

I realized I need to study the waist shaping instructions further before demonstrating, as they may differ between bodice and jacket blocks. For now, I suggest copying your current draft before making any changes, so you have a clean version to work from next week when we draft the sleeves.

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