Live Session (November 17th, 2023)

Developing a Basic Sleeve Block for a Semi-Fitted Jacket

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In this week’s session, I guided students through creating a basic sleeve block for our semi-fitted jacket project. We focused on measuring and drafting the sleeve pattern, incorporating ease for a tailored fit, and preparing for next week’s muslin fitting. The session combined technical pattern drafting with practical tips for achieving a professional-looking sleeve.

Demonstration Steps:

  1. Measured and traced the armhole from the jacket bodice pattern
  2. Calculated and marked key sleeve measurements (arm side, sleeve length, etc.)
  3. Drafted the basic sleeve shape using a step-by-step process
  4. Added ease to the sleeve cap for a tailored fit
  5. Marked notches and balance points on the sleeve pattern
  6. Discussed preparing a muslin sample for next week’s fitting

Questions & Answers:

  • Q: Was the pattern we traced from the tailored jacket block?
  • A: Yes, we used the tailored jacket block from the 6th edition pattern making book, page 67.

  • Q: How much ease should we add to the sleeve length for a jacket?
  • A: For a jacket sleeve, add about 1-1.5 cm to the basic sleeve length measurement.

  • Q: Do we need to make the sleeve narrower at the wrist?
  • A: Yes, I recommend narrowing the sleeve by 3-5 cm on each side at the wrist for a good fit.

For next week, I’d like everyone to prepare a muslin sample of half the jacket bodice with this new sleeve attached. We’ll use this to assess fit and make any necessary adjustments to our sleeve block.