Live Session (January 12th, 2024)

Trouser Fit Corrections and Fabric Selection Tips

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In this week’s session, I covered several topics including trouser fit corrections, fabric selection advice, and updates on upcoming projects. I demonstrated how to adjust patterns to fix common fit issues in the back of trousers, particularly focusing on excess fabric in the seat and thigh areas. I also shared recommendations for fabric reference books to help students make better fabric choices for their projects.

Demonstration Steps:

  1. Explained how to identify excess fabric issues in the back of trousers
  2. Showed how to fold the pattern piece correctly to maintain grain line
  3. Demonstrated pinching and pinning technique to determine amount of excess
  4. Illustrated how to adjust the pattern by creating a center back tuck
  5. Explained how to blend the adjustment into the waist and hip areas

Questions & Answers:

  • Q: How do I know if I need to take fabric out of just the seat area or the whole back leg?
  • A: Try on the trousers and pinch out the excess. If it’s only in the seat, focus there. If it extends down the leg, you’ll need to adjust the whole back.

  • Q: What fabric books do you recommend for learning about different types of fabric?
  • A: I recommend “Fabric for Fashion: The Swatch Book” and “Textilepedia” by Fashionary. Both offer great information on fabric properties, uses, and applications.

  • Q: How can I prevent my trouser legs from twisting after making adjustments?
  • A: Always maintain the straight grain line when folding and adjusting your pattern. This will help ensure the legs hang straight after alterations.