Creating a Dramatic Puff Sleeve for a Twist-Front Dress

February 16th, 2024

Creating a Dramatic Puff Sleeve for a Twist-Front Dress

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In this week’s session, I continued working on our dress project, focusing on creating a dramatic puff sleeve to complement the twisted front bodice and voluminous skirt we designed previously. I demonstrated how to draft, adjust, and construct a puff sleeve pattern, emphasizing the importance of balance and proportion in the overall dress design. We also discussed fabric choices and construction techniques to achieve the desired sleeve shape and volume.

Demonstration Steps:

  1. Drew the initial sleeve pattern based on a basic sleeve block
  2. Slashed and spread the pattern to add volume at the sleeve cap and mid-section
  3. Refined the sleeve shape and proportions
  4. Cut and constructed a muslin mock-up of the sleeve
  5. Fitted the sleeve on the dress form and made adjustments
  6. Redrafted the pattern with increased volume
  7. Created a second muslin mock-up and fitted it again
  8. Discussed fabric and construction techniques for the final sleeve

Questions & Answers:

  • Q: How can I adjust the twist placement for a short torso?
  • A: You can place the twist higher, about 2 inches above the waist at center front, and angle it down towards the sides and back for a more flattering look.

  • Q: Would it look strange to have the bottom line of the sleeve straight?
  • A: A straight bottom line might create an odd diagonal effect when worn. I recommend keeping a slight curve for a more natural fit around the arm.

  • Q: How do I ensure my waistband fits perfectly without gaping?
  • A: Make sure your waist marking is in the correct place on your dress form. If needed, send me a picture of yourself in a fitted bodysuit so I can help you mark the correct waist placement.

This session focused on creating a dramatic sleeve to balance our voluminous skirt design. Next week, we’ll drape the back of the dress, mark the hemline, and discuss the underconstruction needed to support this style.

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