Live Session (May 30th, 2024)

Ruching Techniques on Jersey Fabric for a Body-Hugging Dress

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In this week’s live session, I demonstrated how to create ruching on jersey fabric for a body-hugging dress design. We explored different techniques for achieving a high-end look with diagonal ruching that flows around the body, avoiding visible side seams. Despite some technical difficulties, we made significant progress in about 2.5 hours, showing that this dress can potentially be completed in one day.

Demonstration Steps:

  1. Created a power mesh base layer for smoothing
  2. Cut and prepared the jersey fabric for ruching
  3. Attempted elastic ruching, then switched to hand gathering
  4. Stabilized ruching with a thin tape
  5. Pinned ruched fabric to the dress form along marked lines
  6. Began adjusting fit and tightness on the form

Questions & Answers:

  • Q: Are you sewing the elastic within the seam allowance so it’s totally hidden or on top of the stitch?
  • A: I tried to stay on top of the stitch, within the seam allowance, but not too much. Staying on the stitch is better for this technique.

  • Q: How do you determine the amount of power mesh fabric needed? Do you size down so it works better?
  • A: During draping, you can use jersey with enough stretch to determine fabric needs. I usually buy about 5 yards to have on hand. For the base, you’ll need enough to cover the width and length of your body, as we’re stretching it like a bodysuit around the dress form.

I’ll be continuing this project in a follow-up session where we’ll finish the dress by tightening it around the body and adding final touches.