In this session, I covered how to add godets and trains to panel skirts and dresses, discussing various techniques for creating flare and drama in formal gowns.
I explained the differences between adding flare directly to panels versus using godets, and demonstrated how to draft and construct these elements.
Additionally, I provided a progress update on the Freya dress project, showing the current state of construction and discussing next steps.
Demonstration 1: Adding Godets and Trains to Panel Skirts
- Drafted a basic panel skirt pattern with princess seams
- Demonstrated how to add godets to princess seams for maximum flare
- Explained calculating godet width and length for desired fullness
- Showed how to draft a train by extending the center back panel
- Discussed fabric choice considerations for different effects
- Explained how to blend seam lines for a smooth transition
Demonstration 2: Adding Flare to Panel Skirts Without Godets
- Started with a basic knee-length panel skirt pattern
- Demonstrated how to add flare from the knee or mid-thigh down
- Showed how to gradually increase the width at the hem of each panel
- Explained how to maintain proper seam lengths when adding flare
- Discussed options for center front and back seams
- Demonstrated how to add an optional train to the center back
Questions & Answers:
- Q: Do you recommend a side zipper for these skirts?
- A: No, I don’t really like side zippers. You can have the zipper wherever you want depending on your design. If you don’t have a center back seam, you can put it on the side, but I prefer center back closures.
- Q: How do you ensure the waistband fits perfectly without gaping?
- A: We didn’t specifically discuss waistbands in this session, but generally, you’d want to measure carefully and possibly use interfacing for structure.
- Q: Can you suggest a method to prevent the skirt from twisting?
- A: Make sure you cut your panels on the correct grainline and stay-stitch curved edges to prevent stretching. Proper fitting at the waist and hips will also help prevent twisting.
Demonstration 3: Freya Dress Construction Progress
- Showed the current state of the Freya dress, pinned together but not sewn
- Demonstrated attaching the lining to the bodice
- Explained the process of attaching facings to the lining and outer fabric
- Showed how to handle the hem facing and lining interface
- Demonstrated topstitching techniques for a clean finish
- Explained how to trim and grade seam allowances for smooth corners
- Showed how to press and shape the dress for proper fit and drape