In this week’s session, I demonstrated how to transform a basic princess line bodice and straight skirt into a floor-length formal dress with a flared silhouette.

I focused on matching princess seam lines between bodice and skirt, creating a smooth transition from fitted to flared, and discussed important construction considerations for formal gowns.

Demonstration Steps:

• Matched and pinned bodice princess lines to skirt at waistline, ensuring seamless transition
• Redrew dart positions on skirt to align with bodice princess seams
• Added appropriate ease at side seams to accommodate bodice fit
• Drew new armhole princess lines from shoulder to hem
• Marked hip and mid-thigh points for starting the flare
• Calculated and added appropriate flare amounts (4-5 inches per seam) from mid-thigh to hem

Questions & Answers:

• Q: Why is the bodice gapping between the breasts?
• A: For a straight front panel without center seam, you need proper underpinnings. I recommend a corset style that doesn’t have center front seaming between breasts, and interfacing the front bodice panel for stability.

• Q: Should I add a center front seam?
• A: It’s optional – without it, the front will be straighter between bust points. With a center front seam, you can shape it closer to the body, especially if using corseting. Center back seam is recommended for fit and zipper placement.

• Q: How much flare should I add?
• A: I suggest 4-5 inches per seam (resulting in 64-80 inches total circumference). Test with ribbon to visualize the final sweep. The flare should start gradually from mid-thigh for an elegant line.