Working with Draped Trousers: Comparing Fabric Types & Pleat Variations

January 10th, 2025

Working with Draped Trousers: Comparing Fabric Types & Pleat Variations

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In this week’s session, I demonstrated two variations of draped trousers using different fabric types – a woven fabric with viscose blend and an interlock knit.

We explored how fabric choice affects the drape, compared straight versus tapered leg styles, and experimented with both single and double pleat arrangements for achieving different looks.

 

Demonstration Steps:

  • Assembled the front and back pattern pieces, matching notches and sewing side seams
  • Created and adjusted the drape placement on both woven and knit versions
  • Experimented with pleat positioning – comparing center vs side placement
  • Demonstrated pocket placement within the drape
  • Explored leg silhouette variations – straight vs tapered
  • Tested single vs double pleat arrangements for different effects

 

Questions & Answers:

 

  • Q: Would tapering the legs work better than keeping them straight?
  • A: Both styles work well but serve different purposes – tapered gives a more contemporary look while straight legs create a more relaxed, casual aesthetic

 

  • Q: What’s the best placement for the pocket opening?
  • A: I recommend placing it about 6cm (around 2.5 inches) from the side seam, hidden within the drape fold

 

  • Q: Can we split the pleat into two smaller ones?
  • A: Yes, dividing into two pleats works well and doesn’t require additional fabric width while creating an interesting variation in the drape

 

In next week’s session, we’ll be exploring the draping technique used in the Aviator movie costume dress, applying similar creative draping principles we used for the Nicole dress.

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Working with Draped Trousers: Comparing Fabric Types & Pleat Variations

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