In this week’s session, I guided members through completing the draped dress project we began last week, focusing on finishing the back draping and converting our muslin pieces into a proper pattern.
The simple yet flattering design features a French dart at the front with a flared skirt and a clean-lined back that beautifully complements the silhouette.
Demonstration Steps:
- Draped the back bodice on the dress form, ensuring proper grain line placement
- Marked key points (center back, waist, hip, side seam, armhole) with colored markers
- Positioned the front and back bodice pieces together to check alignment
- Tested the flare effect on the back skirt section and evaluated the aesthetic
- Created a paper pattern by tracing the draped pieces onto pattern paper
- Extended the center front by 25cm to ensure proper drape coverage
- Added an 8cm drop to enhance the sleeve design
- Cleaned up pattern lines and curved edges for a professional finish
- Discussed facing options and finishing techniques for the neckline
- Explained seam allowance placement and proper dart construction
Questions & Answers:
- Q: What if my fabric isn’t wide enough for the pattern?
- A: You can create a seam at the hip level for the back piece only (avoid doing this on the front), which allows you to conserve fabric while preserving the design integrity.
- Q: Should I keep the pointy drape at the center front?
- A: Cut the pattern with the clean line, then test both options when you’ve constructed the dress. Pin it different ways on your body before making the final decision.
- Q: What type of fabric works best for this dress?
- A: A medium-weight jersey with good drape is ideal. If using a woven fabric, you’ll need to add a zipper at the back.
For this “Paula Dress,” consider ordering a nice ponte jersey with sufficient body to showcase the beautiful drape.
We’ll meet again next week to explore another dress design!