In this week’s session, I cut and constructed our Paula dress using a beautiful red ponte roma jersey fabric, showing the transformation from pattern to finished garment.

I demonstrated how to handle the unique quarter-circle front flare and French darts to create a flattering, high-end looking dress that features a beautiful drape.

Following our pattern development last week, today I focused on cutting the fabric, assembling the pieces, and making strategic adjustments for optimal fit and drape.

After discussing the merits of using quarter-circle versus half-circle flare at the center front, I demonstrated the complete construction process and evaluated the final garment on the dress form.

Demonstration Steps:

1. Reviewed the pattern pieces, deciding to use a quarter-circle flare at center front for better drape with ponte fabric
2. Cut pattern pieces from red ponte romanette fabric, carefully marking notches and dart positions
3. Assembled the garment starting with shoulders, then darts, followed by side seams
4. Made adjustments to the sleeve area for better fit, adding a small release at the underarm
5. Evaluated the hem length and made adjustments for balanced proportions
6. Discussed finishing options for neckline, sleeves and hem – including raw edge finishes for this fabric type

Questions & Answers:

• Q: Would the dress work with lightweight fabric like chiffon?
• A: Yes, though with lighter fabrics you might want to keep a half-circle flare at the center front for a more dramatic drape effect.

• Q: What’s the best way to finish the neckline?
• A: I recommend a simple facing about 1.5-2 inches (5cm) wide that follows the neckline for a clean finish without visible seams.

• Q: How do you recommend finishing the sleeves and hem with ponte fabric?
• A: For ponte, you can leave edges raw for a clean look, or use a pearl stitch edge finish. For the underarm, a small facing strip provides a neat finish.

Next week, we’ll explore another dress design using our three-quarters technique—possibly the asymmetrical draped design I showed at the end of today’s session.