In this week’s session, I demonstrated the completion of our three-quarter technique draped dress in a beautiful safari-print fabric.

We focused on exploring the versatility of this technique that combines structure and flow to create interesting silhouettes with both symmetrical and asymmetrical design possibilities.

Demonstration Steps:

1. Reviewed the pattern pieces we developed in the previous session, explaining the placement of center front, side seams, sleeves, and waist
2. Modified the pattern slightly by adding approximately 6cm to the hem for additional length
3. Explained fabric layout considerations for efficient cutting, noting how the straight grain and cross grain positioning affects the drape
4. Demonstrated the construction process, starting with sewing the center front bodice to the center front skirt
5. Created and explored sleeve variations, including below-elbow length and shorter kimono-style options
6. Showed how to adapt the pattern for different body types by adjusting the sleeve length and back pattern pieces
7. Explained how to make the back pattern piece slightly longer (about 1 inch) than the front to create a more flattering hemline that’s higher in front and lower in back
8. Discussed fabric recommendations, noting that drapey fabrics like thin linen, silk, viscose, and rayon work best for this design

Questions & Answers:

• Q: How do I fix my waist twist dress that seems very full at the waist?
• A: When you feel something is wrong, trust your instinct. For your crinkled fabric dress, try adding a waist stay that’s separate from your lining and dress but attached at the center front knot. This will stabilize the knot close to your waist and prevent the center front from moving around.

• Q: What fabrics do you recommend for underlining dresses?
• A: For structured dresses, silk habotai without stretch works beautifully for a luxurious feel. If your top fabric is drapey, use thin silk charmeuse to support the drape. Choose underlining with similar properties to your fashion fabric – structured underlining for structured fabric, drapey underlining for drapey fabric.

• Q: What fabrics would work well for this three-quarter technique dress?
• A: This dress needs fabric with beautiful drape – thin linen, silk, viscose/rayon, silk charmeuse, crepe, or anything with a nice, heavy drape will work beautifully. Avoid crisp, lightweight fabrics that don’t fall well.

Next week, we’ll continue exploring the three-quarter technique by developing asymmetrical designs that combine structured and flowing elements, moving beyond the symmetrical approach we’ve used so far.