In this week’s live session, I was excited to dive deeper into creative draping by exploring asymmetrical dress designs.
We moved beyond the symmetrical shapes we started with and played with how different fabric cuts and draping approaches can lead to unique, flowing garments.
I demonstrated creating two distinct looks:
The Grey One-Seam Dress: Using a folded piece of ponte-like fabric with only one main seam, we created a chic boatneck dress with an integrated dolman/batwing sleeve.
The Pink Patterned Diagonal Drape: With a two-piece rayon jersey cut on a diagonal concept, we explored draping it across the body, creating soft folds and experimenting with integrated and separate sleeve treatments, as well as various asymmetrical necklines.
We spent time manipulating the fabric directly on the dress form, trying different ways to handle necklines, create armholes or sleeves from the drape itself, and anchor the designs using internal waist stays. It was a very creative, “in-the-flow” session focused on generating ideas rather than finalizing one pattern just yet.
Demonstration Steps:
Presented a pre-cut folded fabric piece (grey ponte/scuba type) with a single seam, demonstrating its potential for quick, one-seam dresses.
Draped the grey fabric to create an asymmetrical boatneck dress with one integrated sleeve and an uneven hemline.
Showcased using an internal elastic waist stay, attached at the seam, to anchor the drape and allow for adjusting the garment’s twist/position on the body.
Briefly explored variations with the grey fabric, including a V-neck alternative and adding shape to the back using gathers/pleats.
Introduced a pre-cut two-piece rayon jersey fabric (pink patterned) based on a diagonal cut/seam concept.
Draped the pink patterned jersey diagonally on the form, creating an asymmetrical dress with significant side drape and an uneven hem.
Experimented with forming a sleeve from the draped fabric itself, including trying out gathering techniques at the shoulder/upper arm.
Explored different neckline options (asymmetrical across one shoulder, boat neck) and briefly showed adding a separate sleeve concept.
Discussed potential finishing techniques for jersey fabrics like these (cover stitch, rolled hem, bands).
Evaluated the different looks created on the dress forms in real-time.
Questions & Answers:
Q: How do you make designs work for different sizes/body shapes (e.g., size 6 vs 16)?
A: Fabric choice and design lines are crucial. Drapey styles might not suit all larger shapes; structure can sometimes be better. It’s important to focus on flattering specific body areas (like shoulders for pear shapes, or using flowy tops for apple shapes like mine). Exploring the design directly on a dress form representing that size/shape is the best way to see what works.
Q: Where did you order the dress form cover?
A: I actually use women’s shapewear! I look for ones with a smooth, satiny feel as it helps fabric glide better. I ordered some from Amazon. I just sew the top openings (like armholes) closed, leave the neck open, and pull it onto the form for a snug fit that mimics skin colour.
Q: Would the grey one-seam dress work with silk jersey?
A: It might if the silk jersey is on the thicker side. Very thin, slinky silk jersey might show body contours too much and not have the same body as the ponte roma or thin scuba I used, which almost feel lined due to their weight. Interlock jersey could also give a similar feel with good drape.
Q: How could you add shape to the back of the V-neck grey variation?
A: You could add a small internal string belt just at the back waist, or create a few small pleats or gathers stitched into the seam allowance at the back waistline to cinch it in slightly.
Q: How would you finish the armholes or necklines on these jersey dresses?
A: You have several options! A cover stitch gives a professional finish. You could use a serger for a rolled hem or a narrow decorative edge stitch. Another option is to finish the edge with a self-fabric band or a narrow facing.
Based on our discussion, we decided to keep exploring these asymmetrical ideas next week before settling on one specific project to turn into a pattern. I’m excited to see where our creativity takes us!
P.S. Next week is my birthday week! Getting older, but still passionate about draping and sharing it with all of you!
