In this session, I welcomed you to our creative space and shared my passion for helping you move beyond traditional patternmaking into the freedom of direct design.

I introduced the Direct Design Method (DDM), which focuses on creative draping techniques to achieve unique, high-fashion looks directly on the dress form.

Today, I was excited to demonstrate three different techniques: one based on right angles and geometric folds for a tunic/jacket, a three-quarter fold technique for a one-shoulder dress, and a form & flow technique for an elegant draped gown.

Demonstration Steps:

Project 1: The Harper Tunic/Jacket (Right Angle & Geometric Folds)

• Started with a rectangular piece of knit lamé fabric, clarifying the straight and cross grain and cleaning the edges.

• Folded the fabric in half lengthwise.

• Marked 15 cm down from the top edge on the folded side.

• Marked 22-24 cm down from the top edge on the selvage side.

• Sewed a seam connecting these two points along the selvage edge, leaving the top 15cm open.

• Located the center of the remaining unsewn folded edge at the top (this becomes the center back neck).

• Slashed about 8 cm from this center point outwards on both sides (creating the back shoulder/sleeve line).

• On the opposite folded edge (which becomes the center front opening), measured up about 40-42 cm from the bottom and slashed open to this point.

• Folded the slashed center front edges outwards and pinned them to meet the slashed edges at the back shoulder/sleeve line on each side.

• Sewed these pinned sections to create the armhole/sleeve shape and front drape.

• Placed the garment on the dress form, showing options for finishing the center front (sewing closed for a tunic or adding a zipper for a jacket) and the back neckline (gathering or adding a strap).

Project 2: One-Shoulder Draped Dress (Three-Quarter Fold Technique)

• Started with a long piece of rayon jersey, folded in half lengthwise.

• Marked the desired width for the body (e.g., 54 cm for the dress form used).

• Measured down 64 cm along this width and marked a corner.

• From this corner, extended out 20 cm to create an L-shape and cut this section out.

• From the top of the “L” cut, left about 25 cm unsewn and then sewed the remaining 39 cm of this edge.

• Created a small snip/opening at the corner of the L-shape.

• Made a simple waistband/tie from a scrap of the same fabric.

• Draped the piece on the dress form, threading the waistband through the snip and tying it around the waist to create the one-shoulder drape and adjust the fit.

Project 3: Elegant Draped Gown (Form & Flow Technique)

• Took a length of jersey mesh fabric.

• Folded it in half lengthwise.

• Made a small cut (about 20-30 cm) down the center back fold from the top edge.

• Wrapped the fabric around the dress form, bringing the two top corners to the front.

• Folded the top edges inwards towards the center front to create a V-neckline.

• Pulled the fabric to meet at the waist and secured it with an elastic (a waistband or stay would be used in a final garment).

• Adjusted the drape and folds around the neckline and bust.

• Showed how the back drapes beautifully and explained that a zipper could be inserted in the center back cut for closure.

• Demonstrated an alternative by twisting the fabric at the back before bringing it around to the front for a different draped effect.

Questions & Answers:

• Q: Why do you call it the “three-quarter technique”?

• A: I call it the three-quarter technique because it involves manipulating a three-quarter circular shape or a 270-degree angle in the pattern, which arises from the specific cuts and folds we make from a basic square or rectangle.

• Q: What kind of fabric are you using?

• A: The fabric I’m using for the first demo is a lightweight knit lamé. For the second demo, I used a rayon jersey, and for the third, a jersey mesh. Generally, fabrics with a beautiful drape like crepe, rayon, or viscose, or even some light crisp cottons can work well for these techniques.

• Q: Should I just make the top shorter? (Referring to the first demo piece).

• A: Yes, you can definitely make the top a little shorter if you prefer, rather than a very long tunic or dress length.

• Q: Will the back duplicate the front? (Referring to the first demo pattern).

• A: Yes, the back of this particular design is a mirror image of the front, created by cutting two identical pieces from the pattern.

• Q: Will this design work as a dress? (After showing the second demo).

• A: Yes, the second demo was demonstrated as a dress, and I think the draped skirt is very beautiful.

• Q: Do we like the neckline? (After showing the second demo).
• A: I explored a few neckline options for the second demo, showing that you can adjust the opening to create different looks like a V-neck or keep it more closed.

• Q: Should I do it with cotton?

• A: It might be nice. If you are into the volume look, a lightweight but crispier cotton fabric like shirting could work well. It will definitely work with Ponte and Viscose too. Anything with a drape works nicely.

This session allowed us to delve into creative ways of using geometrical shapes and fabric flow in draping and patternmaking, demonstrating how simple concepts can lead to unique and fashionable garments.