In this week’s live session, I was so excited to dive into the gathered front-twist dress that many of you were asking about. I started by explaining the critical role fabric choice plays in this design, emphasizing why a lightweight, drapey jersey is essential for achieving a beautiful, non-bulky result. The core of the session was a live demonstration where I took a single piece of prepared jersey and, from one simple twist, created two completely different design options right on the mannequin: one a chic, practical cold-shoulder look, and the other a dramatic, high-fashion version with an integrated drapey sleeve. I ended up loving both looks so much that I meticulously marked up the entire design, and we will be turning this into a full pattern-making project in our next session.
1. Fabric Selection & Preparation:
Fabric: I chose a lightweight, four-way stretch jersey with a rayon/cotton blend. I explained that the thinness and drape of the fabric are key; a heavier knit would create too much bulk at the front twist and gathers. As a guideline, the fabric width should only be about 40-50cm wider than your hip measurement.
The Cut: I began with a 2-meter length of fabric, folded in half lengthwise. The most important preparation step was making a long, diagonal cut starting about 75cm down from the top folded edge, going all the way to the selvage. This cut creates the two “tails” that will form the upper body of the dress and ensures the part that drapes around the neck is sleek and not bulky.
2. The Initial Drape & Twist:
I placed the center of the main uncut edge at the mannequin’s center back waist, pinning it in place.
I brought the two sides of the fabric around to the front and created a single, clean twist at the center front waist. This twist is the foundation for the entire design.
3. Draping Design Option 1 (The Right Side – Cold Shoulder):
I took the cut “tail” from the right side of the twist and draped it up and over the mannequin’s right shoulder, securing it at the back of the neck.
I then arranged the rest of the fabric on the back to create a closed-back look with a “cold shoulder” opening. This creates a very practical, bra-friendly, and wearable silhouette.
4. Draping Design Option 2 (The Left Side – Dramatic Drapey Sleeve):
To create a more dramatic, high-fashion look, I needed the left “tail” to be longer. In a moment of real-time design, I hand-basted an extra piece of the same fabric to the end of the left tail to elongate it.
With this new length, I draped the piece over the left shoulder, allowing the extra fabric to fall gracefully down the back and connect fluidly at the side waist. This technique formed a beautiful, integrated batwing-style sleeve, showcasing a completely different character from the same starting point.
5. Marking for a Pattern:
Since I loved both versions, I decided to turn this into a “two-in-one” design. I used different colored marking pens to trace all the essential pattern lines for both the left and right sides directly on the fabric while it was still on the form.
I marked the waistlines, side seams, shoulder points, gathering placements (e.g., “gather to 11cm” at the shoulder), and the full shape of the batwing sleeve. This preparation is crucial for us to accurately transfer this 3D drape to a 2D paper pattern next week.
Q: Should I pad my new display mannequin up to my size?
A: For you, no, you are very close to the mannequin’s size! But it’s an interesting idea. A good way to check the fit is to put one of your own well-fitting, snug garments on the mannequin to see how different it is. If it’s not swimming in it, you should be fine.
Q: Would this dress need a zipper in the back?
A: It really depends on your body shape. If you have a significant difference between your waist and hip measurements (an hourglass figure), then yes, a small zipper at the back would be a great idea to keep the waist snatched and beautifully fitted. If you have a straighter figure, the jersey’s stretch might be enough to slip it on without one.
Q: How do you keep the front twist from moving around or sagging when you wear it?
A: This is a fantastic question, and the professional solution is to add a waist stay inside the dress! You can use a piece of grosgrain ribbon or a firm, non-roll elastic, secured at the inner waistline. This will anchor the twist right where you want it, prevent it from drooping, and give the entire dress a more controlled, high-end, and secure feel when you wear it. I highly recommend it for this style.
