In this week’s live session, I decided to start a personal project and take you all along for the ride: making clothes for myself!
I wanted to create a new top inspired by one of our past projects: a design with a beautiful, effortless drape created by a curved hemline.
Instead of draping from scratch, I decided to show you how to take a pattern from a favorite, well-fitting t-shirt and then use that as a base block to draft a brand-new design, a process I call “pattern hacking.”
Demonstration Steps:
Started by taking a pattern from my favorite Ralph Lauren t-shirt. I carefully laid the t-shirt flat on paper, pinned it down, and traced around the front and back pieces separately to create my initial blocks.
“Trued” the front and back patterns by walking them together at the shoulder and side seams to ensure all the lengths and curves matched up perfectly, making minor adjustments for a clean, accurate block.
Once my t-shirt block was complete, I traced it onto a new sheet of paper to begin drafting the new design.
First, I created a dropped shoulder by extending the shoulder line out and lowering the underarm point for a more relaxed fit. I also showed how to curve the shoulder slope for a softer, less structured look.
Redesigned the neckline into a wider boatneck style.
To create the signature curved hem and drape, I used the slash-and-spread method. I drew several lines across the bottom half of the pattern where I wanted the drape to be.
I then cut along these lines, leaving a small hinge at the side seam, and spread the pieces apart to add fullness and create the new, curved hemline.
Finally, I blended all the new lines to create a clean, finished pattern for a drop-shoulder top with a beautiful, asymmetrical drape at the hem, ready to be cut and sewn.
This session was all about showing you a practical and powerful way to create custom clothes.
By starting with a pattern you know fits you well, you can confidently play with design details and techniques we’ve learned, like this curved hem, to build a wardrobe of unique pieces that are perfectly tailored to your body and style.
I can’t wait to sew this up and show you the finished top next week