This week, we dove into the technical process of turning our draped triangle jacket design into a functional pattern, with a special focus on adapting it to fit my own measurements.
We went over the entire draped piece on the form, making decisions about length and fit, and then I demonstrated how to add a fully closed sleeve for a more traditional jacket look, as well as keeping the original cold-shoulder option.
This session was all about showing you how to take an artistic drape and methodically translate it into a precise, wearable, and customizable pattern.
Demonstration Steps:
- Reviewed the finished draped jacket on the form and decided on key design changes. I marked a new, longer hemline at the center front to transform it into a tunic length that would work better for me.
- Demonstrated how to create a pattern for a fully closed shoulder and set-in sleeve. I used draping tape to define a new, conventional armhole on the form and then draped a new fabric piece to fill in the back gap.
- Showed how this new filler piece could either be a separate pattern piece (perfect for color-blocking or using a sheer fabric like mesh) or be added directly to the main back pattern for a simpler construction.
- Draped a full sleeve pattern from scratch on the form, showing how to shape it around the arm and mark all the notches to match up with the new armhole we created on the bodice.
- Carefully removed all the draped pieces from the form, including the main front and back pieces, the new back filler piece, and the sleeve.
- Began the flat-patterning process by tracing the main back piece onto paper. I then showed how to add more width to the pattern (slashing and spreading) to adjust it for my larger size, adding extra room at the bust and hip.
- Traced the new back filler piece and the front piece, again adding width to accommodate my measurements and ensure a perfect fit.
- Finally, I walked through the entire puzzle of how all the pieces connect, marking where the sleeve attaches to the front and back, and explaining how the complex, multi-piece neckline comes together.
This was a very detailed and technical session that bridges the gap between creative draping and precise patternmaking.
We took a unique, asymmetrical design and broke it down piece by piece, showing how to adjust it for fit and add different design elements like sleeves.
Next week, we will continue to refine these pattern pieces and get them ready for sewing.