This week we moved the triangle shape top from paper into fabric for the first time. Last session we corrected the pattern, so today was about cutting a sample and seeing whether it actually behaves the way I imagined.

I chose a very thin, soft jersey with a lovely drape, because this design is meant to sit lightly over a slip dress or a tank top rather than hold its own structure.

The part I want you to take away is the colour coding. Once a design has this many triangular pieces, written notches are not enough. Matching pairs of seams in the same colour makes assembly obvious, and it saved me several times today.

Demonstration Steps:

• Labelled every pattern piece before cutting: name, front or back, cut to self, size, seam allowance of 1 cm, piece number, and the grain line. Doing this at the point of cutting rather than later is what stops confusion.
• Laid the thin jersey folded, checked that the selvedges were not twisting, and confirmed the straight grain and cross grain on each piece before cutting.
• Ran short of fabric on one piece and solved it by folding out the centre front seam allowance, since that edge is staying as a fold rather than a seam. A small compromise that saved recutting.
• Colour coded the notches: each pair of seams that has to meet got its own colour, so blue meets blue and green meets green. With this many triangles it is far quicker than reading numbers.
• Attached the centre back extension pieces first, then worked outward following the colour codes around the neck and armholes, leaving the armhole openings free.
• Test stitched on a scrap first and lengthened the stitch. I used a straight stitch because my serger is not set up yet, and noted that the stretchy back seam really wants an overlocker for the final version.
• Put the assembled top on the form and looked at how the back drapes and how the side seam cut pulls the fabric back, which is what creates the narrow waist without a fitted seam.
• Draped a two piece triangle sleeve straight onto the form, matching it to the armhole, then corrected the cut lines on the fabric before turning it into a pattern.
• Left deliberate openings in the sleeve seams, at the shoulder tip and at the underarm, attaching only short sections. That gives a peekaboo effect without a full cutout, and it can be closed up entirely if you prefer.
• Talked through how far the same pattern stretches: keep it short for a top, add a centre front seam for a blouse, leave it open for a draped jacket, or lengthen it for a tunic or dress, where the triangular hem gives more sweep.

Questions & Answers:

• Q: I love that top. I think I will try it without the sleeve.
• A: Good, and now we have both versions. Without the sleeve it is a lovely summer piece over a slip dress. With the sleeve it becomes something you can wear every day.
• Q: Could these pieces be different colours, like colour blocking?
• A: Yes, and I think it would look great. The design is made of separate triangular panels, so colour blocking or a sheer panel in one of them works naturally.

I am really happy with how this one turned out. It hugs the waist without being tight anywhere, and that comes entirely from the way the side pieces are cut rather than from fitting.

The seam finishes are not as clean as they will be, because I used a straight stitch instead of my overlocker. It still hangs beautifully.

One piece of news: we get the keys to our new house in Ascot tomorrow. It is small but it has an outbuilding I can turn into a proper workshop, which is exactly what I have wanted. The next few weeks will be busy with contractors, so thank you for bearing with me.