In this session, I shared detailed demonstrations for creating beautiful tulip-shaped side skirts with both straight and bias grain fabrics.
I showed how strategic pleating can transform a simple rectangular piece of fabric into a three-dimensional sculptural element that can dramatically change a garment’s silhouette.
Demonstration Steps:
- Cut a square fabric piece (approximately 28″ x 28″ for size 6-8)
- Create a 5-6″ fold on one edge and stitch it closed to form the first pleat
- Position the fold at the side seam and pin in place at hip level
- Form additional pleats in both front and back directions to create the tulip shape
- Adjust the height and depth of pleats to control fullness and shape
- Pin in place and test the drape before cutting away excess fabric
- Mark all pleats for future reference during sewing and pattern creation
Questions & Answers:
- Q: What fabrics work best for the final dress?
- A: For beginners, choose medium-weight cotton fabrics like poplin, lightweight denim, or cotton/rayon blends. These are easier to handle than silks or chiffons, which can be very challenging.
- Q: How do you add ease to a closely-fitted dress?
- A: Remember that dress forms are rigid while our bodies are soft. When making fitted garments, you need minimal ease – about 1″ total distributed between the side seams. For more comfort, add slightly more ease at the underarm, gradually tapering to less at the waist.
- Q: When should I use bias grain versus straight grain?
- A: This is a matter of design preference. Bias drapes and hugs the body more fluidly but is harder to sew and alter. Straight grain gives more structure and is easier to work with.
- Q: How do I know if I need back darts?
- A: If there’s minimal difference between your upper back and waist measurements, you may not need back darts. If you need additional ease for movement, add about 1-1.5cm at the center back and side seams.
This type of creative draping is about experimentation and artistic expression – viewing your fabric as clay to be sculpted rather than just following rigid rules.
I encourage you to continue touching and exploring different fabrics to develop your intuitive understanding of how they behave on the body.