In this session, I showed how to oversize a shirt pattern through drafting instead of draping. We used the relaxed shirt foundation and added extra ease to create an oversized silhouette.

By separating the front pattern piece and adding width, you can create different oversized looks – rectangular, triangular flares, or more volume at the shoulders. Adjusting where the extra width is added allows you to control the oversized shape.

Lesson Steps:

• Separate the front pattern piece down the center front
• For a rectangular look, add the same amount of ease from shoulder to hem
• For a triangular flare, add more ease at the hem than the shoulders
• For extra shoulder/upper body volume, add more ease at the shoulders than hem
• Adjust armhole curve and shoulder slope to match the new oversized shape
• True the sideseams and shoulders after separating the pattern pieces
• Optionally, add shaping like bust darts or curved hemlines