DCM Masterclass

60 hrs 20 mins

Difficulty:

LESSONS

Week 1: Base Slopers

Taping and Measuring Your Dress Form, and Measurements for Muslin Preparation

Taping and Measuring Your Dress Form, and Measurements for Muslin Preparation

How to properly tape and measure a dress form in preparation for draping. I explain the essential lines that need to be marked, such as the center front, bust, waist, hip, side seam, and others.

Before You Start Draping Slopers PDF

Before You Start Draping Slopers PDF

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Basic Bodice with 1 Dart (Waist) - Draping

Basic Bodice with 1 Dart (Waist) - Draping

Step-by-step process of draping the front and back bodice pieces, creating darts to shape the fabric around the curves, and marking all the necessary points and lines to transfer the draped muslin into a pattern later.

Basic Bodice with 2 Darts (Waist and Bust) - Draping

Basic Bodice with 2 Darts (Waist and Bust) - Draping

In this lesson, I teach how to drape a basic bodice with two darts - one at the waistline and another at the bust line. This method is especially helpful for those with a fuller bust and smaller waist, as it distributes the excess fabric into two separate darts for a better fit.

Straight Skirt - Draping

Straight Skirt - Draping

In this lesson, I teach how to drape a basic straight skirt on a dress form, incorporating darts to achieve the desired fit.

Tapered Skirt - Draping

Tapered Skirt - Draping

In this lesson, I demonstrate how to taper a straight skirt by folding in the fabric from the hip line towards the hem, creating a slimmer silhouette at the bottom while maintaining the straight grain at the waistline.

A-Line Skirt - Draping

A-Line Skirt - Draping

How to create an A-line skirt from a straight skirt pattern by releasing the fabric at the hemline. I demonstrate marking the desired A-line flare and pinning the excess fabric to achieve the desired silhouette.

Attaching Bodice & Skirt, Turning into a Dress Sloper

Attaching Bodice & Skirt, Turning into a Dress Sloper

I demonstrate the steps to properly attach the draped bodice and skirt pieces together, ensuring the darts are closed and the waistlines are matched. This creates a cohesive dress with princess seam lines flowing from bodice to skirt.

Sleeve Sloper Muslin Preparation PDF

Sleeve Sloper Muslin Preparation PDF

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Basic Sleeve - Draping

Basic Sleeve - Draping

How to sew the sleeve pieces together and then attach them to the armhole of the dress form, easing in the sleeve cap to create a smooth curve over the shoulder area. I mark important points like the elbow, wrist, bicep and back/front lines for transferring to a paper pattern later.

Basic Bodice with 1 Dart (Waist) - Patternmaking

Basic Bodice with 1 Dart (Waist) - Patternmaking

How to trace the draped muslin onto dot paper using a tracing wheel, then draw in the seamlines and darts. I explain truing the darts by folding and aligning the dart legs. I also cover matching the side seams, shoulders, and adjusting for a smooth armhole curve. Finally, I add seam allowances to complete the paper pattern pieces.

Basic Bodice with 2 Darts (Waist and Bust) - Patternmaking

Basic Bodice with 2 Darts (Waist and Bust) - Patternmaking

How to transfer a draped basic bodice with waist and bust darts onto paper to create a pattern. I trace the muslin pieces, mark important points like apex, and close the darts to get the final pattern shape. Adjustments aree made to blend the front and back patterns smoothly.

Skirts - Patternmaking

Skirts - Patternmaking

I demonstrate the process of transferring a draped skirt muslin onto paper to create a master skirt block pattern. I show how to true the darts, add desired lengths, and create straight, tapered or A-line skirt styles from the basic block.

Basic Sleeve - Patternmaking

Basic Sleeve - Patternmaking

In this session, I taught how to draft a basic sleeve pattern from a muslin sleeve. I demonstrated tracing the key lines and measurements onto paper to create the sleeve block.

Week 2: Darts Variations

Before You Start Draping Slopers PDF (From Week 1)

Before You Start Draping Slopers PDF (From Week 1)

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Taping and Measuring Your Dress Form, and Measurements for Muslin Preparation (From Week 1)

Taping and Measuring Your Dress Form, and Measurements for Muslin Preparation (From Week 1)

How to properly tape and measure a dress form in preparation for draping. I explain the essential lines that need to be marked, such as the center front, bust, waist, hip, side seam, and others.

French Dart - Draping

French Dart - Draping

How to drape a French dart on a dress form. I cover the importance of reference lines, preparing the muslin, and the step-by-step process of pinning and shaping the fabric to create a French dart silhouette. I also demonstrate how to mark important lines and transfer the drape to a pattern piece.

Shoulder Dart - Draping

Shoulder Dart - Draping

In this lesson, I teach how to create a shoulder dart through draping. I demonstrate the process of manipulating fabric to create a well-fitted bodice, focusing on the shoulder area and explaining the difference between armhole and shoulder darts.

Center Front Dart - Draping

Center Front Dart - Draping

How to create a bodice with a center front dart using draping techniques. I demonstrate the process of preparing the dress form, placing and pinning the muslin, and creating the center front dart. I also show how to drape the back of the bodice and make necessary adjustments.

Asymmetric Dart - Draping

Asymmetric Dart - Draping

How to create an asymmetric dart through draping. I demonstrate how to manipulate fabric on a dress form to create a unique dart placement, emphasizing the importance of maintaining proper grain lines while allowing for creative freedom in design.

Empire Bodice - Draping

Empire Bodice - Draping

In this lesson, I teach how to drape an empire bodice. I demonstrate the process of creating the top and bottom sections of the bodice, including how to add darts, tucks, and ease for a proper fit. I also show how to drape both the front and back pieces of the bodice.

Multiple Darts Bodice - Draping

Multiple Darts Bodice - Draping

How to create multiple darts, gathers, or tucks instead of a single large dart to shape fabric around the body. I demonstrate various techniques for distributing excess fabric creatively, including closed darts, open darts, gathers, and pleats.

French Dart - Patternmaking

French Dart - Patternmaking

In this lesson, I teach how to transfer a French dart drape to a paper pattern. I demonstrate the process of tracing the muslin piece onto dotted paper, marking key reference points, and refining the pattern with a ruler.

Shoulder Dart - Patternmaking

Shoulder Dart - Patternmaking

How to create a shoulder dart in a bodice pattern. I demonstrate the process of drafting the new pattern lines, adjusting the armhole and neckline, and folding the dart. I also show how to handle excess fabric in large darts and how to match the front and back bodice pieces.

Center Front Dart - Patternmaking

Center Front Dart - Patternmaking

How to transfer a draped bodice with a center front dart to a paper pattern. I demonstrate the process for both the front and back pieces, including how to mark darts, adjust lines, and match the front and back pieces.

Asymmetric Dart - Patternmaking

Asymmetric Dart - Patternmaking

How to create an asymmetric dart bodice pattern. I demonstrate how to transfer the draped muslin to paper, make necessary adjustments, and finalize the pattern. I also provide tips on how to use this pattern as a base for future designs.

Empire Bodice - Patternmaking

Empire Bodice - Patternmaking

In this lesson, I teach how to create a pattern for an empire bodice with small tucks instead of one large dart. I demonstrate how to transfer the muslin pieces to pattern paper, true the seams, add ease, and make necessary adjustments to ensure a perfect fit.

Multiple Darts Bodice - Patternmaking

Multiple Darts Bodice - Patternmaking

How to create a multiple darts bodice pattern. I demonstrate how to transfer the muslin onto dot paper, mark the darts, and create a clean, professional pattern. I emphasize the importance of organization and precision in patternmaking.

Week 3: Bodice Styles

Before You Start Draping / Preparation PDF

Before You Start Draping / Preparation PDF

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Classic Princess Bodice - Draping

Classic Princess Bodice - Draping

In this lesson, I teach how to create a classic princess bodice through draping. I demonstrate how to measure the dress form, prepare muslin pieces, and drape both the front and back sections of the bodice, including the center and side pieces.

Dior Dart - Draping

Dior Dart - Draping

How to drape a panel dart, also known as the Dior dart. I demonstrate how to create a straight, loose bodice with this dart style, which has been featured in various Christian Dior designs. The lesson covers draping techniques for the front, side, and back panels, as well as how to adjust the silhouette for different looks.

Armhole Princess Bodice - Draping

Armhole Princess Bodice - Draping

How to drape an armhole princess bodice, which differs from the classic princess bodice. I demonstrate how to prepare the muslin, drape the front and back pieces, and create the side panels. I also explain the importance of adding ease and making adjustments for a proper fit.

Curved French Dart - Draping

Curved French Dart - Draping

How to drape a curved French dart, a technique commonly used in couture. I demonstrate the process on a dress form, showing how to mark the curve, drape the muslin, and create the dart. This technique can be applied to various dart placements on the body.

Surplice Top - Draping

Surplice Top - Draping

In this lesson, I teach how to drape a surplice top on a size 14 dress form. I demonstrate how to prepare the muslin, drape the front and back pieces, create darts and gathers, and mark reference points for pattern making.

Full Torso Princess Bodice - Draping

Full Torso Princess Bodice - Draping

In this lesson, I teach how to drape a full torso princess bodice that is very close-fitting. This sloper can be used as a base for various dress designs, resizing dress forms, or as an underlayer for padding. The focus is on creating a skin-tight fit, almost like a corset.

Classic Princess Bodice - Patternmaking

Classic Princess Bodice - Patternmaking

How to create a classic princess bodice pattern. I demonstrate the process of transferring the drape to paper, truing the lines, and making necessary adjustments to ensure a perfect fit. We focus on both the front and back pieces, paying close attention to the princess seams and overall shape.

Armhole Princess Bodice - Patternmaking

Armhole Princess Bodice - Patternmaking

How to create an armhole princess bodice pattern. I demonstrate the process of aligning pattern pieces, tracing, and adjusting the pattern to ensure a perfect fit. I also show how to blend lines for a smooth finish and add seam allowances.

Dior Dart - Patternmaking

Dior Dart - Patternmaking

How to create a pattern for a panel bodice or Dior dart top. I demonstrate how to transfer the draped design to pattern paper, make adjustments, and finalize the pattern pieces for a three-panel top with a Dior dart.

Curved French Dart - Patternmaking

Curved French Dart - Patternmaking

In this lesson, I teach how to transfer a curved bodice draped piece to a paper pattern. I demonstrate the process of tracing the pattern, making necessary adjustments, and creating a curved French dart. This lesson focuses on advanced patternmaking techniques for a more complex bodice design.

Surplice Top - Patternmaking

Surplice Top - Patternmaking

In this lesson, I teach how to create the pattern for a surplice top with pleats. I demonstrate the process of transferring the draped pieces onto paper, including how to mark and fold the pleats, adjust darts, and ensure proper fit and symmetry.

Full Torso Princess Bodice - Patternmaking

Full Torso Princess Bodice - Patternmaking

In this lesson, I teach how to create a very close-fitting full body princess sloper. I demonstrate transferring the pattern to dot paper, separating the pieces, and making necessary adjustments for a snug fit. The focus is on creating an accurate, close-fitting pattern that could potentially be used as a dress form cover.

Week 4: Jerseys & Creative Cutting

Jersey Week 1 Information PDF

Jersey Week 1 Information PDF

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T-Shirt Foundation - Draping

T-Shirt Foundation - Draping

In this lesson, I teach how to drape a basic t-shirt foundation on a dress form using jersey fabric. I demonstrate how to create a grid on the fabric, place it on the dress form, and pin it in place to create a well-fitting foundation for both relaxed and close-fitted t-shirts.

Very Close Fitting Jersey Sloper - Draping

Very Close Fitting Jersey Sloper - Draping

How to create a very close-fitting jersey sloper through draping. I demonstrate the process for both the front and back pieces, focusing on achieving a tight fit while maintaining proper alignment of center lines and key body points.

T-Shirt Foundation - Patternmaking

T-Shirt Foundation - Patternmaking

How to transfer a t-shirt foundation to a paper pattern. I demonstrate how to make adjustments for both close-fitting and relaxed-fit styles, including dart manipulation and armhole adjustments. I also explain the importance of truing the pattern and double-checking measurements.

Very Close Fitting Jersey Sloper - Patternmaking

Very Close Fitting Jersey Sloper - Patternmaking

In this lesson, I teach how to create a very close fitting full body jersey sloper. I demonstrate how to transfer measurements from a dress form to paper, make necessary adjustments, and finalize the pattern for both front and back pieces.

Introduction to Geometric Cutting

Introduction to Geometric Cutting

In this session, I introduce the concept of creative draping using geometric cutting techniques for jersey, knits, and stretchy fabrics. I focus on three basic shapes: rectangular, square, and triangle, demonstrating how to cut, sew, and drape these shapes on a dress form. This lesson is designed to be playful and introduce students to fluid, different shapes in clothing design.

Cutting the Geometric Shapes

Cutting the Geometric Shapes

In this lesson, I teach how to cut basic geometric shapes for dressmaking. I demonstrate cutting rectangles, squares, and triangles from jersey fabric, explaining the measurements and techniques for each shape. I also show how to adjust measurements based on dress form size.

Sewing the Geometric Shapes

Sewing the Geometric Shapes

How to sew geometric shapes to create unique garments. I demonstrate how to work with rectangular and triangular pieces to form sleeves, bodices, and necklines. The focus is on experimenting with shapes and assembly rather than perfect finishing.

Draping and Fitting the Geometric Shapes - Part 1

Draping and Fitting the Geometric Shapes - Part 1

How to create simple yet effective designs using basic geometric shapes like rectangles, triangles, and squares. I demonstrate how these shapes can be draped on a model or dress form to create various looks without complex pattern-making or alterations.

Draping and Fitting the Geometric Shapes - Part 2

Draping and Fitting the Geometric Shapes - Part 2

How to create and modify a basic triangular top using jersey fabric. I demonstrate various techniques for adjusting the neckline, adding design elements like pleats, and creating different looks by manipulating the fabric.

Draping and Fitting the Geometric Shapes - Part 3

Draping and Fitting the Geometric Shapes - Part 3

In this lesson, I teach how to drape and fit a kimono-style top with a tubular skirt. I demonstrate various techniques for creating different designs, from fitted to loose, and showed how to manipulate the fabric to achieve different looks.

Week 5: Jerseys & Geometric Odd Shapes

Measurements and Diagrams PDF

Measurements and Diagrams PDF

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Overview and Concept of Unconventional Geometric Cutting

Overview and Concept of Unconventional Geometric Cutting

I introduce the concept of unconventional geometric cutting in dressmaking. I teach how to push the boundaries of conventional design by experimenting with shapes and lines, drawing inspiration from designers like Rick Owens and Alexander McQueen. I explain the difference between conventional and unconventional approaches to garment design.

Patterns Demo and Measurements

Patterns Demo and Measurements

How to create three basic t-shirt patterns with varying designs. I demonstrate how to make a simple rectangular t-shirt, a triangular-shaped t-shirt, and an unconventional design with an off-center neckline. I provide measurements and explain how to adjust them based on individual body sizes.

Overview of the Three T-Shirt Shapes

Overview of the Three T-Shirt Shapes

In this lesson, I teach three different t-shirt shapes: a basic conventional style, a slightly modified version, and a more unconventional design. I demonstrate how small changes in sleeve length, bottom hem, and side seams can create distinct looks. I also introduce the concept of using different colors for the front and back in the unconventional design.

Cutting the Three T-Shirt Jerseys

Cutting the Three T-Shirt Jerseys

In this lesson, I teach how to cut three different t-shirt patterns from jersey fabric. I demonstrate how to pin and cut the fabric for each design, emphasizing that this was an experimental process to show different shapes and techniques. I also explain the basic assembly steps for each t-shirt style.

Geometrical Odd Shapes Dress Ideas

Geometrical Odd Shapes Dress Ideas

How to create unconventional dress styles using simple geometric shapes. I demonstrate how to push the boundaries of traditional dress patterns by manipulating rectangular shapes and adding unique elements like asymmetrical sleeves.

Cutting 1st Geometric Odd Shape Dress

Cutting 1st Geometric Odd Shape Dress

How to cut and create the first geometric odd shape dress using an interlock jersey fabric. I demonstrate how to measure, fold, and cut the fabric to create an unconventional dress shape with rectangular elements.

Cutting 2nd Geometric Odd Shape Dress

Cutting 2nd Geometric Odd Shape Dress

How to cut and prepare the pieces for an experimental geometric odd shape dress using a lightweight interlock jersey fabric. I demonstrate how to measure, fold, and cut the fabric for the main body and sleeves, creating unique curved patterns.

Sewing All the Pieces

Sewing All the Pieces

How to sew together various t-shirt designs we had previously created. I demonstrate sewing techniques for different styles, including a basic T-shaped shirt, one with softer side seams, a color-blocked version, and a more complex design with unique arm construction.

Cutting the Necklines Before Fitting

Cutting the Necklines Before Fitting

In this lesson, I teach how to experiment with unconventional neckline placements on basic t-shirts and dresses. I demonstrate cutting necklines in unexpected locations to push the boundaries of traditional design and create interesting, unique looks.

Fitting of Geometric Odd Shape Tops and Dresses

Fitting of Geometric Odd Shape Tops and Dresses

How to create unique and interesting tops and dresses using unconventional draping techniques. I demonstrate how to transform basic t-shirt shapes into high-end designer-looking pieces by manipulating necklines, armholes, and fabric placement. We explored various ways to add interesting elements and create effortless, chic looks.

Week 6: Skirts

Skirt Week Measurements PDF

Skirt Week Measurements PDF

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Peg Skirt - Overview and Muslin Preparation

Peg Skirt - Overview and Muslin Preparation

In this lesson, I teach how to drape a peg skirt, a popular style from the 50s and 60s that's making a comeback. I explain the characteristics of this close-fitting pencil skirt silhouette and introduced the muslin preparation process for draping.

Controlled Flare Skirt - Overview and Muslin Preparation

Controlled Flare Skirt - Overview and Muslin Preparation

How to create a controlled flare skirt, which allows you to determine where and how much flare you want in specific areas of the skirt. This technique gives you more control over the skirt's shape compared to traditional circle skirts, allowing for a more customized fit and silhouette.

Princess Line Skirt Foundation / Sloper - Overview and Muslin Preparation

Princess Line Skirt Foundation / Sloper - Overview and Muslin Preparation

How to prepare to drape a princess line skirt, also known as a gore skirt. This foundation can be used to create various skirt styles with multiple panels. I explain how to prepare the muslin pieces for draping and discussed the importance of measuring and adding extra width to each panel.

180 Degree Fold Creative Draping Skirt - Overview and Muslin Preparation

180 Degree Fold Creative Draping Skirt - Overview and Muslin Preparation

How to prepare muslin for a 90-degree fold creative draping skirt, which is an extension of creative cut and geometric cut pieces. I explain that this technique has been used by Christian Dior and is a fun, creative draping method.

Peg Skirt - Draping

Peg Skirt - Draping

How to drape a peg skirt, starting from the center back and moving towards the front. I demonstrate how to create the characteristic peg skirt shape by gathering and pleating excess fabric towards the front while keeping the back clean and fitted.

Controlled Flare Skirt - Draping

Controlled Flare Skirt - Draping

How to create a controlled flare skirt using draping techniques. I demonstrate how to strategically cut and manipulate fabric to control the flare in specific areas, creating a flattering silhouette without gathers or pleats at the waist. This method allows for more customization than traditional circle or A-line skirts.

Princess Line Skirt Foundation / Sloper - Draping

Princess Line Skirt Foundation / Sloper - Draping

How to drape a princess line skirt foundation-sloper. I demonstrate the process of draping the front and back pieces, focusing on achieving the correct fit and shape. The lesson covers creating a natural fit, marking important lines, and assembling the pieces to check the overall silhouette.

180 Degree Fold Creative Draping Skirt - Draping

180 Degree Fold Creative Draping Skirt - Draping

In this lesson, I teach how to create a creatively draped skirt using a 180-degree fold technique. I demonstrate how to prepare the fabric, place it on the dress form, and manipulate it to achieve the desired silhouette. I also show how to drape the back piece and create darts for a better fit.

Peg Skirt - Patternmaking

Peg Skirt - Patternmaking

How to turn a draped peg skirt into a pattern. I demonstrate the process of transferring the draped piece onto dot paper, marking pleats and darts, and creating a clean, finished pattern. I also discuss fabric choices, lining options, and finishing techniques for this stylish skirt design.

Controlled Flare Skirt - Patternmaking

Controlled Flare Skirt - Patternmaking

How to transfer a controlled flare skirt from draping to pattern. I demonstrate how to create both the front and back pattern pieces, add length, and create a smooth hemline. I also explain how to add facings and finish the skirt professionally.

Princess Line Skirt Foundation / Sloper - Patternmaking

Princess Line Skirt Foundation / Sloper - Patternmaking

How to create a princess line skirt foundation-sloper. I demonstrate how to true the pattern pieces, add length, and create variations such as straight, tapered, A-line, and flared skirts. I also explain how to add ease and use this sloper as a base for future designs.

180 Degree Fold Creative Draping Skirt - Patternmaking

180 Degree Fold Creative Draping Skirt - Patternmaking

How to turn a 90-degree draped skirt into a pattern. I demonstrate the process of transferring the draped design onto pattern paper, including how to true the lines, add crucial information, and create a finished pattern for both the front and back pieces of the skirt.

Week 7: Dresses

Dress Week Measurements PDF

Dress Week Measurements PDF

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Sheath, Semi-Fitted and Shift Dresses - Overview and Muslin Preparation

Sheath, Semi-Fitted and Shift Dresses - Overview and Muslin Preparation

In this lesson, I teach how to prepare for draping sheath and shift dresses. I explain the classic style of these dresses and the importance of proper muslin preparation. I demonstrate how to measure the dress form accurately to create the muslin pattern for both front and back pieces.

Sheath, Semi-Fitted and Shift Dresses - Draping

Sheath, Semi-Fitted and Shift Dresses - Draping

How to drape three different dress styles: shift, semi-fitted, and sheath dresses. I demonstrate the techniques for creating each style, starting with the basic shift dress and progressing to the more fitted sheath dress. I also show how to create a boat neckline variation.

Panel Dress - Draping

Panel Dress - Draping

How to drape a panel dress on a larger size dress form with a unique shape. I demonstrate how to create an illusion of contouring the body using design lines and sectional draping techniques. The dress features a v-neck, no shoulder seam, and a fitted silhouette.

Twist Dress - Draping

Twist Dress - Draping

How to drape a twist dress, which falls into creative draping. I demonstrate how to prepare the fabric, drape it on the dress form, and create the unique twist effect around the waistline. This technique can be applied to various fabrics and styles, allowing for personalized and creative designs.

Sheath, Semi-Fitted and Shift Dresses - Patternmaking

Sheath, Semi-Fitted and Shift Dresses - Patternmaking

How to create a basic sheath dress pattern sloper with ease. I demonstrate how to trace the muslin pieces, draw the darts, and make necessary adjustments. I also explain how to modify the pattern for different dress styles, including sheath, shift, and boxy silhouettes.

Panel Dress - Patternmaking

Panel Dress - Patternmaking

How to create a pattern for a panel dress from muslin pieces. I demonstrate how to transfer the draping to paper, make necessary adjustments, and true the pattern pieces. I also explain the importance of adding ease, handling bias areas, and including essential information on pattern pieces.

Twist Dress - Patternmaking

Twist Dress - Patternmaking

In this lesson, I teach how to transfer a draped twist muslin into a pattern. I demonstrate the process of flattening the muslin, pinning it to dotted paper, and transferring the markings with a tracing wheel. I also show how to true the pattern pieces and add necessary adjustments.

Week 8: Corset

Corsets Information PDF

Corsets Information PDF

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Corset Introduction and Preparation

Corset Introduction and Preparation

In this session, I teach you how to prepare for draping a corset. We will be making a traditional sweetheart corset with a center front seam that curves around the bust. I show different types of breast cups and how to attach them to the dress form. The key is getting the right size and positioning them properly for the desired shape.

Draping the Corset

Draping the Corset

How to drape the corset pattern directly on the dress form. I start by preparing straight grain fabric pieces and pinning the center front line. Then, I shape the fabric around the bust and waist areas, pinning and trimming as needed to achieve a smooth fit.

Information on Corset Types and Materials

Information on Corset Types and Materials

In this session, I share details about corset making, the materials used, and the finishing techniques involved. I explain the different types of corsets, from lightweight bridal corsets to heavily structured historical pieces.

Corset Construction Final Fabrics

Corset Construction Final Fabrics

I showcase the materials I plan to use for constructing my corset. I selected a cotton-polyester brocade fabric for the outer shell and a structured satin fabric for the lining. I also introduced a fusible, mid-weight knit interfacing that she will use for both the shell and lining fabrics.

Preparation for First Fitting with Draped Pieces

Preparation for First Fitting with Draped Pieces

How to prepare the draped pieces for the first fitting before transferring them to a final pattern. I demonstrate cleaning up the outlines of the draped muslin pieces and adding seam allowances. I also explain the process of fusing the muslin pieces onto interfacing to give them structure for the initial fitting.

First Fitting with Draped Pieces

First Fitting with Draped Pieces

In this lesson, I fuse the muslin pieces with horsehair fusible interfacing and attached all six draped pieces together. I then take the assembled muslin to my dress form for the first fitting.

Truing the Corset Pattern

Truing the Corset Pattern

How to true the corset pattern pieces by matching seams, adjusting curves, and adding notches for proper alignment during sewing.

Cutting Corset Fabric Lining and Interfacing

Cutting Corset Fabric Lining and Interfacing

I demonstrate how to cut the fabric, lining, and interfacing for a corset or bustier project. I explain the different materials being used, including a brocade fabric for the outer shell, a mid-weight satin knit for the lining, and interfacing to provide structure.

Sewing the Corset

Sewing the Corset

I teach how to sew the corset pieces together, emphasizing the importance of carefully matching the pattern pieces and notches to avoid mixing up the order. I demonstrate sewing the outer fabric pieces first, then the lining pieces, preparing them for the next steps of adding boning and bust cups.

Determining the Length of Bonings and Placement of Bust Cups

Determining the Length of Bonings and Placement of Bust Cups

How to measure and prepare the boning pieces for the corset project. I show the top shell and lining pieces, explaining the need for the lining to be slightly smaller than the outer fabric.

Sewing Bonings to the Lining

Sewing Bonings to the Lining

I demonstrate how to sew the bonings (rigid interfacing strips) to the lining of the dress. I first apply interfacing on top of the bonings and press them carefully to avoid melting. Then, I position the center front piece along the marked center line and sew the boning on either side of the seam.

Breast Cup Placement

Breast Cup Placement

In this lesson, I demonstrate how to properly position and attach the breast cups to the bodice. This step is crucial for achieving the desired fit and support in the bust area.

Sewing the Zipper

Sewing the Zipper

How to sew the zipper onto the back of a top piece. I carefully align the notches and seams before attaching the zipper, ensuring a perfect fit.

Attaching Corset and Lining

Attaching Corset and Lining

How to attach the corset outer layer to the lining. I first check the fit on the dress form, ensuring everything is neat and even before proceeding to pin and sew the layers together.

Finishing the Corset

Finishing the Corset

In this session, I teach how to finish the bottom of the corset by adding a bias strip and hand-stitching it for a clean, professional look. I also discuss alternative methods like machine stitching or attaching a skirt lining.

Creative Draping on a Constructed Base

Creative Draping on a Constructed Base

In this lesson, I teach how to creatively drape fabrics on a constructed base like a corset or fitted bodice. I demonstrate draping techniques to achieve structured yet fluid designs suitable for gowns and wedding dresses.

Week 9: Sleeves

Sleeves Variations Drafting PDF

Sleeves Variations Drafting PDF

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Introduction, Taping and Measurements for Sleeve Pattern

Introduction, Taping and Measurements for Sleeve Pattern

In this lesson, I introduce the anatomy of sleeves and explained why combining drafting and draping is the best method for creating sleeves. I teach how to prepare for sleeve pattern-making by gathering necessary tools and taking accurate measurements from the dress form and arm.

Preparation of Schematic of Sleeve Sloper

Preparation of Schematic of Sleeve Sloper

How to create a schematic for a sleeve sloper. I demonstrate how to draw the initial diagram, divide it into sections, and create the curved armhole shape. I also show how to transfer the pattern to muslin and prepare it for fitting.

Fitting Sleeve Sloper #1

Fitting Sleeve Sloper #1

How to attach and fit a sleeve sloper to the bodice. I demonstrate the process of matching seams, easing the sleeve cap, and pinning it in place. The focus is on achieving a clean fit without excessive ease at the top of the sleeve.

Draping Sleeve #2 Without Prior Shaping

Draping Sleeve #2 Without Prior Shaping

In this lesson, I teach how to shape an unshaped sleeve piece around the body. I demonstrate how to add fullness, ease, and make adjustments to create a well-fitting sleeve that matches the body's sloper. This process is crucial for creating a perfect sleeve sloper before moving on to more advanced sleeve styles.

Basic Sleeve Sloper Patternmaking

Basic Sleeve Sloper Patternmaking

How to transfer a draped sleeve to a pattern and create a basic sleeve sloper. I demonstrate the differences between the paper pattern and the draped piece, and explain how to adjust the sleeve curve for different effects.

Puffed Cap Sleeve

Puffed Cap Sleeve

In this lesson, I teach how to create a puffed cap sleeve from a basic sleeve pattern. I demonstrate how to modify the pattern, add volume, and create gathers for a cute, short sleeve with a slight puff at the top.

How to create a unique draped sleeve using a square fabric and pleating techniques. I demonstrate how to manipulate fabric to create interesting designs and transform them into a functional sleeve. This technique allows for creativity and customization in sleeve design.

Raglan Sleeve - Draping

Raglan Sleeve - Draping

How to create a raglan sleeve pattern through draping. I demonstrate the process of transferring the sloper to paper, cutting and preparing the fabric, and then draping it on the dress form to achieve the desired raglan sleeve shape.

Raglan Sleeve - Patternmaking

Raglan Sleeve - Patternmaking

In this lesson, I teach how to create a basic raglan sleeve sloper. I demonstrate the process of transferring the pattern, refining the lines, and explain how this sloper can be used as a foundation for various design variations.

Peter Pan Collar

Peter Pan Collar

In this lesson, I teach how to drape a Peter Pan collar, which can be adapted to various collar styles. I demonstrate the technique using a 13x13 inch muslin piece and showed how to shape, pin, and mark the collar on a dress form.

Off Shoulder / Bardot Sleeve

Off Shoulder / Bardot Sleeve

How to create a drop shoulder and off-shoulder sleeve designs. I demonstrate how to make a Bardot sleeve, which is a band around the shoulder, and explain the process of creating a dropped shoulder sleeve that attaches underneath the arm.

Week 10: Project Week & Refining

Facing & Lining Mini-Session

Facing & Lining Mini-Session

In this session, I explain how to create facing and lining patterns for various bodice and skirt designs. I cover different techniques for making facings, including how to draft them for basic bodices, princess seam bodices, and skirts, as well as how to incorporate linings with facings. I also provide tips on interfacing, seam allowances, and how to handle darts when creating lining patterns.

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